Down tight winding cobblestone streets, and overlooking medieval high-rises sits an unexpected vegan haven in Scotland’s capital. Edinburgh may not be the city with the most vegan restaurants, but it has something better: a subtle but never-wavering normalization of vegan dining.
From living in Berlin for a year and frequently traveling to London, two of the noted best cities in the world for vegans, I’ve literally had a taste of what it’s like to access vegan food in abundance. However, in the large stretches between the more plant-based neighborhoods in these metropolises, a casual or spontaneous vegan bite can be a challenge.
Vast areas of these big cities lack a welcoming hand to vegan visitors, often with a confused face when asked about vegan options, then removing a key component of the dish and charging the same price. I remember visiting a restaurant in Berlin where the only thing vegan on the menu was potatoes, and when I ordered them, they came mixed with bits of sausage.
This brings me to ask, are these famous locations truly the vegan must-visits they are hyped up to be, or is there a better alternative?
Is It Easy to Be Vegan in Edinburgh?
In comparison, when returning to my home country from abroad and settling in the small (in comparison) Scottish city of Edinburgh, I found it refreshing that most restaurants and cafes understand and cater well to dietary requirements.
As a vegan of 7 years, I rarely have to think about where to eat in Edinburgh. From a modest deli sandwich to even a steakhouse (which I was once taken to against my will and had a surprisingly nice vegan gnocchi dish), Edinburgh’s vegan scene is nutritious and flavorsome without having to go to a specialty vegan restaurant.
Don’t get me wrong! We do have some great vegan restaurants: NovaPizza, Soul Vegan and Black Rabbit Deli being amongst my favorites. However, some of my top places to eat in Edinburgh aren’t actually fully vegan, and are especially handy to have up my sleeve when meeting friends who aren’t as excited about a plant-based menu as I am.
Support for lower meat consumption is nothing new in Edinburgh, with Henderson’s vegetarian and vegan restaurant being a pioneer of meatless dining in the UK since 1962. Followed by David Bann vegetarian restaurant opening up in 2002 and still going strong to this day.
This brings me to the question: why is this Scottish city that I call home so welcoming to vegan locals and visitors alike?
Related read: The Best Vegan Haggis in Edinburgh
Why is Edinburgh so Vegan-Friendly?
One reason could be the link between veganism and sustainability. With Scotland’s renewables now generating the equivalent of 97% of Scotland’s energy consumption, the Scottish Green Party being particularly popular in Edinburgh, and the country’s ambitious net zero targets, Edinburgh seems to be a climate-conscious melting-pot.
Another reason could be Edinburgh’s large international population; students bring their vegan appetites, and people from around the globe introduce their country’s yummy cuisines, which often have a diverse range of plant-based options.
The final reason I can think of that explains Edinburgh’s herbivorous appetite is that we Scots are not internationally celebrated for our cuisine (deep-fried Marsbar anyone?). With a national acceptance that our dishes are often better mixed or fused, it actually plays to the advantage of the vegan community.
Unlike countries such as France where each recipe (butter and all) is pretty much sacred, I can’t think of many locals that would bat an eyelid if you don’t cook our traditional Scottish food to the exact recipe; many of my non-vegan friends even prefer vegan haggis over its meaty counterpart.
Furthermore, the simplicity of our national recipes, with many dishes consisting mostly of oats and potatoes, makes vegan adaptations pretty easy.
Whatever the reason, Edinburgh’s hospitable approach to plant-based living is one of the reasons I feel so at home in the city. I’d therefore fully recommend our beautiful capital to anyone wishing to try out a more spontaneous, all-rounded and welcoming vegan experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Edinburgh’s regular restaurants, not just the vegan-specific ones, actually vegan-friendly?
Yes, in my experience most mainstream restaurants and cafes in Edinburgh will have at least one vegan main and understand what “vegan” means without a lengthy explanation. This runs from casual delis to fine dining, including menus that weren’t built with vegans specifically in mind.
Is vegan haggis easy to find in Edinburgh?
Vegan haggis has become common enough that many pubs and Scottish restaurants list it as a straightforward menu swap rather than a special request. It typically uses lentils, oats, and root vegetables in place of the meat, and it’s worth trying even if you’re not usually a haggis person.
What is the best time of year to find vegan street food in Edinburgh?
August, during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, brings a large jump in pop-up food stalls and street food vendors across the city, and vegan options tend to multiply along with everything else. Outside festival season, the deli and café scene stays consistent year-round.
Do I need to book ahead at Edinburgh’s dedicated vegan restaurants?
Weekend evenings at the smaller vegan restaurants, like NovaPizza and Soul Vegan, can fill up, so I’d book a table for a Friday or Saturday dinner. Weekday lunches and casual spots like Black Rabbit Deli are far easier to walk into without a reservation.
How does Edinburgh’s vegan scene compare in scale to London’s or Berlin’s?
Edinburgh has far fewer dedicated vegan restaurants than either city, simply because it’s a smaller city. The difference is consistency: in Edinburgh, that smaller number of vegan restaurants is backed up by a much wider base of ordinary restaurants that already cater well, which isn’t guaranteed in the areas of London or Berlin outside their plant-based neighborhoods.
