In keeping with her exploration of relaxed tailoring and a softer take on the utilitarian DNA of her Qasimi brand, Hoor Al-Qasimi this season celebrated the act of making with a collection filled with modular construction and an organic, tactile edge.
The designer exposed threads and extended them beyond hems, displaced seams and revealed the architecture of some garments, as seen in a tailored look presented entirely inside out.
The most appealing part of her process was expressed via the deep pleats used on shirts and wide pants, creating a nice sense of movement as the models walked the show. Amplifying the kinetic quality were crocheted details punctuating some looks, including belts with extended, loose strands of yarn swaying from the hips, which clicked with the crafty vibe of openweave cardigans, sweaters and polos with off-centered collars to further signal the collection’s imperfect and laidback mood.
The organic feeling was enhanced by Al-Qasimi’s manipulation of materials and the subdued yet sophisticated color schemes of her layering. This hinged on combinations of earthy tones of brown, mocha and camel with rose, jade and olive green accents, while manual dyes staining twill pieces to expose the marks of the treatment reinforced her intention to spotlight the process behind garment-making.
While engaging in such an exercise, Al-Qasimi drew parallels with the work of Hassan Sharif, one of the Gulf’s most influential contemporary artists, whose practice transformed industrial and everyday materials into dense sculptural forms through repetitive manual actions like tying, weaving, binding and folding objects.
The designer said her spring 2027 lineup marks the first chapter of a two-season exploration inspired by Sharif and the principles underpinning his work.
“[This collection] is about how making leaves a mark,” said Al-Qasimi. “Hassan’s work understood that repetition isn’t mechanical — it’s cumulative, and meaning is built over time. That felt true to what we were trying to do with the clothes this season, and what it means to work in someone’s absence rather than alongside them.”
