The California lifestyle is an endless source of inspiration for Doni Nahmias. Wanting to create something “rugged yet delicate” this season, he explained during a showroom appointment (he will return to the Paris runway next January), it was an evening at the beach, observing the dust settling on a grouping of vintage sports trucks, that got him musing.
As such, he explored a range of treatments and techniques to create an aged patina on his fabrics, lending an air of insouciance and a vintage vibe to his relaxed luxury wardrobe.
Workwear-inspired silhouettes came in canvas, suede, denim and linen treated and wizened using a range of different processes, from sand and stone washing to sun-fading. A wide-weave check fabric was loomed by hand, chunky yet lightweight all at once. Nahmias worked with artisans in Peru and India to create fabrics, knits, lace and crochet details, and fun motifs provided touches of whimsy on his cargo pants, shorts and jackets.
A relic of childhood, temporary tattoos inspired print details, while lace appliqué motifs were also playful, lending a hand-mended aesthetic when applied over distressed denim or canvas. Fabric scraps removed from one garment were applied as contrasting details elsewhere in the collection.
Image pieces included some outstanding options in butter-soft leather or suede featuring Nahmias’ signature star motif, as well as a colorful total crochet look resembling old blankets, adorned with cute details including the handstitched face of the designer’s wiener dog, with the aesthetic of that outfit channeled elsewhere for belts and embroidery details.
