With so many self-proclaimed skin care experts commanding authority across online forums such as TikTok and Reddit, each promoting their own multistep routines packed with the “best peptides, exfoliants, toners and oils,” it’s become increasingly difficult to know what routine and which ingredients you should actually trust. Do these convoluted rituals actually work? Or is a simplified regimen, comprised of two, maybe three, products better? And what the heck even are peptides?
According to Dr. Daniel Gould, a board-certified plastic surgeon, peptides are “short chains of amino acids that mimic fragments of the body’s signaling proteins.” Peptides tell fibroblasts (cells in the connective tissue) to produce collagen. They’re reasonable daily drivers, compatible and the most accessible category now.
That said, there are four families under the wider peptide umbrella. “Copper peptides like GHK-Cu are the most interesting to me from a regenerative standpoint,” said Gould. “They exist naturally in plasma, they show up in wound healing, they influence fibroblasts and matrix remodeling.” These are effective for post-procedure recovery and skin that can’t handle retinoids. “But they’re incredibly formulation sensitive; most products on the shelf are underdosed,” Gould noted.
Other families include signal peptides, matrixyl and palmitoyl tripeptides, all of which “mimic collagen fragments” and signal the skin to rebuild while supporting the barrier. Gould likes to classify these as “workhorses for everyday antiaging.” The results of these appear over time.
Neurotransmitter peptides, on the other hand, are what some consumers regard as “topical Botox.” The effects of these peptides are “modest,” according to Gould, though this category is arguably the most oversold. “The science is real, but topical penetration to a neuromuscular target is really hard,” he continued.
The final category is enzyme inhibitor peptides, which block enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
To effectively layer these cellular signaling molecules into your skin care regimen, Gould suggested focusing on a core ingredient category. Blindly layering products will do more harm than good. “Stacking buzzy ingredients is a very common mistake I see because it’s expensive and rarely is it additive or synergistic,” he said, noting that you should never have more than three actives — which include vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids — in a routine.
A star morning ritual would start with a cleanser first, before any antioxidants are massaged into the skin. After the cleanser is cleared, you can go in with a vitamin C, a peptide and a serum moisturizer. The final step should be SPF.
“When it comes to summer skin, no ingredient is more important than sunscreen. Daily sunscreen use remains the single best way to prevent skin cancer, sun damage, hyperpigmentation and premature aging. Sunscreens generally fall into two categories: mineral (containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) and chemical (ingredients such as avobenzone and newer-generation UV filters). Neither category is universally better; the best sunscreen is the one you enjoy wearing consistently, said Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, a board-certified dermatologist specializing in cosmetic and medical dermatology.
At night, the order should be: cleanser, exfoliant (alternate between an acid and a retinoid), peptides and rich moisturizer.
