Two obsessions are glaringly obvious in Gabriela Hearst’s resort 2027 collection — lace and slipdresses.
But a showroom visit reveals a host of other obsessions: with painstaking knitting and hand-knotting techniques; with rare fabrications, some of which only Hearst employs; with dyeing techniques that closely match the designer’s dreamy watercolor sketches in desert-sky hues, and with sustainable garment-making methods, from an upcycled fur bomber to a suit in Sea Island cotton corduroy rendered crimson with botanicals only.
Hearst’s clothes look lovely in photos, but must be seen in person to understand the excellence and variety of make. For example, her long, lacy slipdresses are sometimes done with suede, sometimes cotton, and sometimes knitted wool.
“It’s a lot of lightness in different permutations,” she said, while noting that a few heavier styles like the fur bomber are included, since resort drops in November.
Hearst searches far and wide for unique craft practitioners, which for resort include Manos del Uruguay, a nonprofit supporting women who can knit nubby cashmere yarns at warp speed; Madras & Artesanas, a collective in Bolivia that does hand-knotting, needlework and ladder stitching, and Josh Tafoya, a 2025 LVMH Prize finalist who comes from a family of weavers in New Mexico. For Hearst, he provided traditional elements like Mexican serape stripes, or Chimayo-inspired chevron motifs for elbow patches on cashmere sweaters, or panels fronting a camel coat in cashmere double face.
Hearst’s clothes wear their labor lightly, radiating luxury and understated chic. Devotees will find new variations of her signatures, like cashmere knits studded with tiny glass beads, here resembling faded porcelain florals, and killer pantsuits, in dual-color wools that shift according to light, or mesmerizing metal-woven silk that looks molten.
The resort range includes menswear, for which Hearst used meaty linens, washed silks and recycled cotton for five-pocket denim jeans. It feels current and timeless at the same time.
