The conversation at Paris Men’s Fashion Week usually revolves around one question: what’s hot?
But this season, the answer was also literal — extreme heat.
Paris was burning and the record-breaking heat was impossible to ignore, so buyers came away asking more fundamental questions.
“Climate was impossible to separate from the clothes,” said Bloomingdale’s fashion director David Thielebeule. “The question this week was less, ‘What’s the next big trend?’ and more, ‘How do I survive the walk to the next show?’ Fortunately, many designers answered both.”
Lightness was a key theme of the season, with buyers repeatedly pointing to softer silhouettes, lighter fabrics and fluid construction as both a response to the heat and a bigger shift toward ease.
Dopamine dressing has passed, and colors shifted into sorbet tones and sun-faded shades, while tailoring became more relaxed.
“Perhaps the heat influenced this new approach to dressing, but the boundaries between formal and casual became increasingly blurred,” said Holt Renfrew fashion director Joseph Tang.
Climate isn’t just influencing the silhouette — it’s changing what gets bought.
“As hotter summers become the new normal, lightweight materials such as silk, chiffon and sheer fabrics feel increasingly relevant,” said SND China founder Will Zhang.
“This shift isn’t limited to luxury fashion: it has already been reflected across Instagram and street style, where breathable, effortless dressing has become a clear consumer preference…It’s no longer just a seasonal trend, but increasingly essential to the way people want to dress,” he added.
Across the board, buyers also talked about moving away from hype pieces and “hero” items, and instead building full wardrobes. Rather than chasing one standout product, they focused on pieces that work together, such as light tailoring, relaxed trousers, layering pieces and accessories that can be mixed and repeated.
Dries Van Noten came out as the clear favorite of the season, praised across markets for its mix of fluidity, color and wearability, while Michael Rider’s men’s debut at Celine was widely seen as a strong, commercially grounded update that brought a fresh take to the house codes.
Rick Owens was also repeatedly mentioned for directly addressing the heat, with a collection that used cooling, breathable and water-inspired elements that felt both conceptual and practical for the weather in Paris.
Outside the big luxury houses such as Dior, which was often cited as well, Japanese designers were a standout. Auralee was consistently praised for its easy, wearable elegance, while LVMH Prize winner Soshi Otsuki was highlighted as one of the most exciting emerging designers.
Overall budgets were mostly flat across key retailers, reflecting a cautious but steady buying environment focused on selective investment rather than big expansion.
“We remain cautiously optimistic. Although we are not pursuing aggressive growth, budgets are generally trending upward,” said Beymen Group general merchandising manager Görkem Şahin, while ENG’s head of buying and business development Laura Darmon said that budgets are up as the retailer opens more doors.
Within that, footwear, lightweight outerwear and accessories were the clear winners, as buyers leaned into versatile categories that can work across seasons.
Below, a collection of buyers’ reactions to the season.
Celine
Courtesy of Celine
Young-Su Kim, senior vice president, general merchandise manager, men’s, home, jewelry, beauty and men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Celine, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Willy Chavarria.
What show best met the moment: Julian Klausner’s third menswear show for Dries Van Noten. The collection nailed several of-the-moment trends we’re seeing in Paris this season. The collection featured delicate, flowing lightweight layers, a desert-neutral color palette injected with refreshing sorbet colors — creamsicle, mint and lavender — and a mix-and-match approach to sport, utility and tailoring.
Trend that will matter: Tailoring as fashion: blazers, dress trousers and suits came in a variety of shapes and sizes but were all worthy of the desirability and excitement once reserved for graphic hoodies and biker jeans. Ease, fluidity and lightness in terms of proportion and material — silk, linen and cotton. Color palette: neutrals are still predominant, but refreshing sorbet colors stood out, including mint, peach and pale rose.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Brands coming out of Japan and South Korea in particular have our eye, including Ssstein, Soshiotsuki and Man on the Boon.
How did you handle the heat: Tailored shorts (the shorter the better) and sandals.
Görkem Şahin, general merchandising manager — designer men’s, Beymen Group
Favorite collections: Lemaire, Celine, Wooyoungmi, Sacai, Rick Owens.
What show best met the moment: Lemaire. Beyond the collection itself, the staging at the Opéra Bastille was particularly moving. The transition through the seasons, conveyed through sound and gestures, and the direct interaction between models and guests created a rare sense of intimacy — something that feels increasingly relevant today. The collection embodied the essence of SS27: subtle but highly appealing, blending practicality, elegance and emotional resonance. During a season when authenticity and wardrobe relevance were crucial, Lemaire presented a powerful vision of modern menswear.
Trend that will matter: Lightweight, fluid tailoring and elevated everyday fashion will become more important. Designers are increasingly emphasizing breathable fabrics, relaxed silhouettes and versatile layering, especially given current climate and lifestyle trends.
Trend that won’t: Highly theatrical, costume-like designs may stay niche, as customers continue to value durability and practicality.
Budgets up, down or flat: We remain cautiously optimistic. Although we are not pursuing aggressive growth, budgets are generally trending upward. We are willing to invest where we see strong potential and clear opportunities, particularly in brands and categories with sustained client demand and long-term relevance.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We are increasing our investment in soft tailoring, luxury casualwear, knitwear and leather accessories. We are also becoming more selective in highly seasonal statement pieces and overly experimental fashion statements.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Toteme’s menswear expansion was one of the most interesting developments this season. Its refined, minimalist approach feels particularly relevant in today’s market. Beyond that, our focus remains on reinforcing partnerships with our strongest existing brands while selectively evaluating emerging opportunities.
What shifted this season: The most significant shift was a renewed emphasis on meaningful products. Throughout Paris, collections appeared more grounded, sophisticated and wardrobe-oriented. Priorities shifted toward craftsmanship, fabric innovation and versatility rather than spectacle, highlighting that luxury today is increasingly characterized by quality, authenticity and durability.
The season in one word: Grounded.
How did you handle the heat: Lots of water, iced coffee and a good sense of humor. The collections were worth the heat.
David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior, Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons Homme, Issey Miyake.
What show best met the moment: At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner stripped away the excess and delivered a collection that felt lighter than air — a perfect response to the scorching temperatures that defined Paris this week. Getting dressed has been a challenge since Florence [at Pitti Uomo]. How do you prepare for a day spent in this relentless heat? Klausner answered that question with whisper-light sheer crepe shirting, floaty shorts and barely-there chiffon tanks that drifted across the stage. Some models even had feathers caught in their hair, adding to the collection’s ethereal mood. It was a fantasy, but it also felt practical — the exact wardrobe we all wished we had in our rapidly depleting suitcases.
Trend that will matter: Lightweight tailoring and airy layering. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello presented fluid jackets in washed neutrals with pleated trousers and those surreal shoes everyone is talking about. Julian Klausner’s Dries felt designed for life in extreme heat. At Lemaire, cotton poplin, softer tailoring and relaxed layering reinforced the idea that dressing up can feel breezy without sacrificing sophistication. Paris made a compelling case that the future of menswear is lighter, softer and easier to wear.
What shifted this season: Climate was impossible to separate from the clothes. The question this week was less, “What’s the next big trend?” and more, “How do I survive the walk to the next show?” Fortunately, many designers answered both. When getting dressed starts to feel like an endurance sport, fashion has to offer more than fantasy — and many collections in Paris did just that.
The season in one word: Lightness. In both fabrication and vibe, the strongest collections stripped away unnecessary weight — physically and visually.
How did you handle the heat: Sancerre, and a late-night team ride on the Ferris wheel in the Tuileries.
Soshiotsuki
Courtesy of Soshiotsuki
Laura Darmon, head of buying & business development, ENG
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Kiko Kostadinov, Ernest W. Baker, Greg Ross, Soshiotsuki.
What show best met the moment: Definitely Saint Laurent, with a pretty impressive installation.
Trend that will matter: I’m seeing a resurgence of shirts with ties styled under aviator jackets, short bottoms with tailored silhouettes, brownish/yellowish color palettes across many brands and full white looks, from shoes to apparel. Overall, it feels like an “intellectual corporate” silhouette with a little twist.
Budgets up, down or flat: Going up. We’re expanding our existing doors, so we do need more products.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: Increasing shoes and accessories, while being careful with heavier items, as delivery can become tricky when the weather gets warm quickly.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Shayne Oliver is relaunching his own label with a collection mostly composed of shoes and sneakers, which looks amazing and very promising.
What shifted this season: More focused collections, and definitely more minimalistic collections overall.
The season in one word: Hot.
How did you handle the heat: I honestly didn’t …
Alice Feillard, men’s and shoes buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Celine, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, IM Men.
What show best met the moment: Willy Chavarria’s show at the Espace Niemeyer was both powerful and intimate. The collection felt strong and increasingly refined.
Trend that will matter: Soft tailoring continues to evolve toward a more lightweight and casual aesthetic with sensuality. Brands are investing in versatile wardrobes designed for longevity, with fluid, weightless yet refined silhouettes. Layering remains key, allowing the men’s wardrobe to adapt to different weather and occasions. The silhouette is less clean, a bit craftier, even grunge. There is also a return to more fitted proportions. It is a season of color — with many faded shades, such as butter yellow, mint blue and pale pistachio, alongside bold colors mixed together, bringing freshness and energy.
Budgets up, down or flat: Overall flat, but increasing on key brands and categories.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: Fluid tailoring, light parkas, denim, leather and shirting. On the accessory side: soft bags, leather flip-flops, soft slippers and ballet shoes.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Not necessarily new brands, but emerging designers we already carry and continue to support or follow attentively: Hed Mayner, Soshiotsuki, Meta Campania Collective, Aldo Maria Camillo, Ssstein and Studio Nicholson.
What shifted this season: The most interesting brands are those investing in their own DNA, creating collections that feel more personal with a distinctive point of view while celebrating the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship. There is also a growing dialogue between menswear and womenswear. Across the shows, there was a palpable sense of joy and optimism that felt particularly refreshing and welcoming in the context of today’s global uncertainty.
The season in one word: Colorful and lightweight fluidity.
How did you handle the heat: Sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water were the must-have accessories of this fashion week to make it across Paris in the heat.
Simon Longland, director of buying — fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Celine, Givenchy, Lemaire, Auralee, Dior.
What show best met the moment: Celine. It captured the mood of the season with confidence and clarity. The collection felt effortless, modern and highly desirable, while remaining grounded in pieces that customers will genuinely want to wear.
Trend that will matter: The defining shift was toward a softer, more fluid silhouette. Tailoring became lighter, proportions relaxed and layering more instinctive, creating wardrobes that feel versatile rather than prescriptive. Beyond silhouette, there was a clear return to authenticity through natural fibers, earthy palettes and references to the outdoors. Accessories also played a much stronger role, particularly jewelry with a personal, collected feel — charms, talismans and pieces that tell a story. Soft, washed denim continues to evolve, while lightweight knits, collarless shirting, cargo trousers and refined sportswear all stood out as commercially relevant pieces for next season.
Trend that won’t: Ballet shoes are unlikely to translate broadly to our customer. Equally, sheer dressing remains an important runway statement, but it is unlikely to become a meaningful commercial opportunity beyond a handful of fashion-led brands.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We’re continuing to invest in categories that build complete wardrobes rather than individual statements. Accessories — including sunglasses, belts and jewelry — remain a priority, alongside lightweight layering pieces and product that supports year-round dressing. We’re placing greater emphasis on color for SS27, while reducing exposure to heavier outerwear and weighty knitwear as customers continue to favor lighter, more versatile wardrobes.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: We’ve made several exciting additions across both men’s and women’s for SS27. It’s still too early to share details, but we’re looking forward to introducing them at the appropriate time.
What shifted this season: What stood out most was a growing sense of refinement rather than reinvention. Designers moved away from extremes and instead focused on ease, quality and longevity. Another notable shift is the continued convergence of men’s and women’s creative direction. Across many houses, the conversation is becoming less about gender and more about a shared wardrobe, with collections evolving through a common design language.
The season in one word: Optimistic.
How did you handle the heat: Fortunately, the collections offered the perfect uniform — lightweight tailoring, breathable fabrics and plenty of hydration.
Lemaire
Courtesy of Lemaire
Shaun Donnelly, buying director, non-apparel and menswear, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Rick Owens, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Saint Laurent.
What show best met the moment: Dries Van Noten. The fluidity of the fabrics felt perfectly in tune with the soaring Paris temperatures. It was also great to see subtle nods to the house’s archive, with references to iconic pieces such as the bleached denim, giving long-time Dries collectors plenty to appreciate while still feeling fresh and forward-looking.
Trend that will matter: Trends come and go, but comfort and functionality have become non-negotiable. Luxury today has to feel as good as it looks.
Trend that won’t: The era of buying into every viral piece or collaboration is slowing. Customers are becoming more discerning, investing in timeless, versatile pieces over products designed purely for hype.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We’re continuing to invest in shoes and bags, as they’re the categories where customers are most willing to make long-term luxury purchases. We are decreasing products that rely heavily on visible logos. Customers are increasingly drawn to exceptional design and quality over overt branding.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Ssstein. We’re excited by the brand’s quiet confidence. Its focus on elevated everyday dressing, premium fabrication and impeccable tailoring feels incredibly relevant for today’s luxury customer.
What shifted this season: Less noise, more conviction. The collections that stood out were those with a clear identity and exceptional product, rather than those trying to create a headline.
The season in one word: Authenticity.
How did you handle the heat: PMA! There isn’t a fan, iced coffee or bottle of water in the world that’s going to beat 43-degree [Celsius] heat. At that point, positive mental attitude is all you have.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Celine, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Sacai.
What show best met the moment: Celine’s debut men’s show was a triumphant declaration of the very best Parisian fashion has to offer. The collection challenged familiar proportions and presented a modern vision of Parisian dressing that felt both desirable and remarkably wearable. It delivered clothes that both men and women would covet.
Trend that will matter: Tailoring was a defining message in Paris, with suiting becoming more deconstructed and silhouettes shifting away from boxy proportions toward fluid movement. Sacai, Celine and Lemaire each mastered the art of drape.
The skinny trouser re-emerged at Dior and Junya Watanabe, styled with larger proportions on top for a fresh interpretation of the silhouette. Color also stood out, with vibrant reds, dusty pastels and pops of cobalt blue adding visual interest to otherwise monochromatic looks.
The flip-flop trend continues, worn best with fluid trousers, while the Tang jacket emerged as a compelling alternative to the traditional tailored jacket.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: Styling was integral to defining the new look for men’s this season. We’re approaching the collections with that same sensibility, ensuring we’re not simply buying products, but curating complete wardrobes that allow customers to express their own unique sense of style.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: It was a significant season for men’s fashion in Paris, with the debut men’s collections from Givenchy and Celine signaling the continued strength and opportunity within the category. The Japanese designers also did not disappoint, delivering exceptional runway collections from Auralee, Ssstein and LVMH Prize winner Soshiotsuki.
What shifted this season: There was a lightness to the season. Perhaps the heat influenced this new approach to dressing, but the boundaries between formal and casual became increasingly blurred. Designers embraced a softer, more sensual approach to menswear without compromising sophistication. What emerged was a wardrobe that balanced sensuality, ease and elegance. If one thing is certain, men will have more options than ever to build wardrobes that feel both fresh and relevant.
The season in one word: Light.
How did you handle the heat: Taking a cue from this season’s runway collections, I kept my wardrobe light, fluid and airy. The hottest accessory was undoubtedly a fan. Shows that offered fans, misting stations and air conditioning made navigating the record-breaking temperatures a little more manageable.
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche & La Samaritaine
Favorite collections: Dior, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten.
What show best met the moment: Rick Owens best captured the spirit of the moment. Watching the models walk one after another alongside the monumental water columns created an incredibly powerful atmosphere. It was one of those rare shows where the setting amplified the collection without overshadowing it.
Louis Vuitton also deserves a mention. The monumental wave set was one of the most talked-about installations of the week and made a strong visual impact.
And, the river quay at sunset was the perfect location for Officine Générale.
Trend that will matter: The continued blend of relaxed tailoring and elegance. Comfort is no longer at the expense of style; it enhances the silhouette. Soft construction, fluid fabrics and effortless sophistication are what will continue to resonate with our customers.
Trend that won’t: Prominent logos. Our customer tends to favor understated luxury and timeless pieces over overt branding.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Givenchy, Toteme, Soshiotsuki.
What shifted this season: This season, jackets felt noticeably lighter, while tailoring seemed to float around the body with effortless ease. Shirts became increasingly sheer, adding a sense of lightness and sensuality. Trousers also evolved, moving away from exaggerated oversized proportions toward fuller but more controlled volumes.
The color palette shifted just as significantly. Strong contrasts almost disappeared, colors were consistently muted, white was never truly white, and black was nearly absent. Instead, collections were built around soft, natural shades that created a calm and understated atmosphere.
The season in one word: Lightness.
How did you handle the heat: A hand fan became my best friend 😉
Auralee
Courtesy of Auralee
Krizia Bianchi Fasani, buying director, LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Soshiotsuki, Celine.
What show best met the moment: Rick Owens, with his built-in AC clothing while Paris was melting.
Trend that will matter: Refined tailoring with exceptional textiles.
Trend that won’t: Unpractical shoes.
Budgets up, down or flat: Necessarily cautious budgets. The luxury consumer is still there but more selective and buying tighter.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: Increasing tailoring, outerwear with technical intent and elevated knitwear.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Soshiotsuki.
What shifted this season: The creative director reshuffle is finally landing with product: Jonathan Anderson at Dior with his newness, and Julian Klausner, who respects continuity while bringing his vision to Dries Van Noten.
The season in one word: Conviction.
How did you handle the heat: A lot of shade and appointments reshuffling.
Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Auralee, The Row, Studio Nicholson, Celine, and Lemaire.
Auralee continues its reign as being the brand that makes it easy for men to dress well. The collection felt “lighter” with an exploration into the Auralee guy’s holiday mindset, and, as always, unexpected but on-point color combinations — the turquoise jackets were favorites.
The Row’s latest collection was so strong, with more color and texture, and less essentialism, while maintaining strong price architecture. Standout pieces include the plaid shirting, vintage workwear drill jackets and layered gray Ts. Bags were also strong, with new messenger and briefcase shapes in grain leather, while footwear saw new lace-up wallabies and the sleek leather flip-flop.
What show best met the moment: Studio Nicholson staged its first runway show, and it met its intention of showing clothes that are purposeful yet desirable. You can see these looks existing in the real world, and that’s something that not all designers keep front of mind.
Trend that will matter: It’s a season of hit “item” pieces rather than a strong multi-trend focus. These items are all casual-leaning — considered and wearable with a strong workwear influence. The key theme across most collections I’ve seen is the use of color, and the bold red, turquoise and purple are the strongest after a sun-faded color focus in Milan.
Pants are the starting point of outfits this season — cargo pants were everywhere, carpenter drill cottons and lightweight, airy cotton styles. Brands were also not afraid to play with color. It’s a category we have seen significant growth in over the past few seasons, and I’m anticipating higher growth again.
The blouson or workwear chore jacket is always a mainstay of menswear, but this season there is a wider offer in fabrics and colors — a pragmatic approach to wardrobing balancing commerciality and novelty.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Salon C. Lundman is a brand we have been watching for a few seasons now. SS27 was the best yet, with key developments in lightweight jackets, alongside the perfect-fit pants and shirts.
J. Meuser is another brand we continue to watch closely. Their take on traditional Neapolitan tailoring with a New York twist, and their expanding ready-to-wear offer, is unique.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Celine, Rick Owens, Dior, Soshiotsuki, Lemaire.
What show best met the moment: Rick Owens delivered a sense of respite during an apocalyptic heat wave by offering self-cooling jackets alongside luxurious silk renditions of his signature work shirts and baggy shorts, showing that even in periods of extreme weather, it’s possible to find beauty worth appreciating.
Trend that will matter: First it was voluminous trousers. Now maybe baggier shorts in elevated fabrics like linen, silk blends and tropical wool might be a new summer staple.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Soshiotsuki impressed with his Paris debut, following up from his season as the featured designer at Pitti Uomo.
The season in one word: Heated.
How did you handle the heat: A personal fan and facial spray have become everyday essentials.
Rick Owens
Courtesy of Owenscorp
Victor Poulsen, buyer for men’s luxury and designers, Printemps
Favorite collections: IM Men, Dries Van Noten, Willy Chavarria, Ssstein, Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
What show best met the moment: Louis Vuitton and Rick Owens perfectly captured the spirit of the season. In the middle of Paris’ intense heat wave, both incorporated water into their show concepts, creating immersive experiences that felt not only visually striking but also emotionally and physically connected to the moment.
Trend that will matter: The strongest trends were exaggerated V-necklines, elevated tracksuits, football jerseys and the continued fusion of tailoring with functional sportswear.
Trend that won’t matter: Ultra-mini shorts may generate editorial attention but are unlikely to resonate with the wider luxury customer.
Budgets up, down or flat: Our budget is flat compared with SS26. The focus remains on refining the assortment, investing in proven performers and balancing commercial brands with selective new discoveries.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We’re increasing our investment in lightweight outerwear and versatile layering pieces made from premium summer fabrics. These categories answer both practical needs and evolving customer demand for elevated everyday dressing.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: I was impressed by labels such as Rkive City from New Delhi and Frei-Mut from Amsterdam. We’re also introducing Nahmias, the Los Angeles-based brand behind the now-iconic Marty Supreme jacket, to our assortment.
What shifted this season: This season felt more grounded. Rather than chasing novelty, many brands focused on refining their identity through craftsmanship, quality and wearable products. It reflected a growing confidence in longevity over hype — a direction that feels increasingly aligned with today’s luxury customer.
The season in one word: Warm — not only because of the record temperatures, but also because of the genuine human connections, positive energy and collaborative spirit that defined the week.
How did you handle the heat: Luckily, Florence and Milan had already prepared me. By the time I arrived in Paris, I was fully trained for the heat wave.
Bruce Pask, associate vice president, men’s fashion office, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Willy Chavarria, Sacai, Soshiotsuki, Celine.
What show best met the moment: The finale at the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show was surprisingly cathartic. An unexpected emotional moment of collective joy inspired by a group of models in boldly colorful, Pop art-inspired graphic sporty looks bounding and bouncing down the runway to an a cappella children’s choir. The show was met with extended applause that seemed to go on and on, a tribute to an iconic designer who always manages to inject such depth and meaning into her singular collections.
Trend that will matter: The airy lightness of fabrications lent a real warm-weather seasonality to collections. This was made especially apparent in the extreme Paris heat — from the diaphanous, filmy layers in Julian Klausner’s airy Dries Van Noten collection and the flowing dusters at Lemaire, to the barely there sheer double-breasted suits at Dior and the open-weave knit polos at Zankov.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: The Paris market has an abundance of newness, from shows to showrooms all over town. It’s almost too much to take in with such a compact time frame, but we discovered some compelling brands and collections that we are excited to share with our customers.
What shifted this season: Along with the overwhelming focus on lightweight fabrications and constructions throughout collections and shows, there has also been a curious inclusion of heavier-weight outerwear in a number of collections, poised as buy-now, wear-now propositions for the beginning of the season.
The season in one word: Breezy.
How did you handle the heat: Growing up in the desert, I’m used to heat, but this was intense. I’ve worn worsted wool and cotton twill dress shorts since the day I landed in Florence for Pitti Uomo. For the spring shows I always travel with traditional paper fans I’ve picked up, and they get a lot of use. We ordered wearable air conditioners, worn like headphones, and they were helpful. I also brought along the parasol we received at Dior’s outdoor show that was a great sun shield while walking to all the Marais showroom appointments. And lots and lots of hydration.
Bosse Myhr, director menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Dior, JW Anderson, Celine.
What show best met the moment: The Celine show was great. So many pieces that will be great additions to anyone’s wardrobes.
Trend that will matter: Light fabrics will be a trend that will matter most going into next year’s summer season.
Trend that won’t: Short shorts might not be the most long-lasting trend.
Budgets up, down or flat: We are confident about SS27 overall, and collections are giving us what we need.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We are increasing our spend on outerwear and jersey, T-shirts mainly. We are also looking at new designers that will enrich our overall brand portfolio. We are pulling back on some brands that have increased their availability and are, as a result, less exclusive. This matters to our clients to find something they can’t find elsewhere.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: We are looking at a few at the moment, new in spring will be Soshiotsuki, as well as Studio Nicholson.
What shifted this season: We noticed a greater diversity of different brands pursuing their own identity. It was not all tailoring or all streetwear, authenticity and staying true to a brand’s DNA was noticeable this season
The season in one word: Authentic.
How did you handle the heat: We bought neck air conditioners after Milan Fashion Week, and it was a life saver at some of the hottest shows.
Backstage at Willy Chavarria
Vanni Bassetti/WWD
Will Zhang, founder, SND China
Favorite collections: Our Legacy, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Auralee.
What show best met the moment: Lemaire. Beyond the collection itself, what resonated most was the show’s sound design. The soundtrack incorporated natural environmental sounds, creating a quiet dialogue between the garments and their surroundings. It reinforced Lemaire’s philosophy of clothing that adapts effortlessly to different environments and everyday life, making the entire presentation feel both timeless and deeply relevant.
Trend that will matter: Lightweight, fluid fabrics. As hotter summers become the new normal, lightweight materials such as silk, chiffon and sheer fabrics feel increasingly relevant. Lemaire and Dries Van Noten both embraced fluid silk constructions, while Dior explored transparency and airy layering. This shift isn’t limited to luxury fashion: it has already been reflected across Instagram and street style, where breathable, effortless dressing has become a clear consumer preference.
Trend that won’t: Heavy tailoring and over-layering. Structured blazers and heavy layering feel increasingly disconnected from today’s climate and lifestyle. While tailoring will always remain important, consumers are becoming much more selective, prioritizing versatility and comfort over elaborate styling.
Budgets up, down or flat: Flat. Although we’re beginning to see signs of renewed momentum in emerging sectors such as AI, the global economic environment remains relatively cautious. Fashion, as a more traditional industry, typically responds at a slower pace. While brands continue to introduce fresh ideas and creative propositions, we’re maintaining a disciplined and conservative buying strategy to navigate the current market.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: We’re increasing investment in elevated sportswear and fashion-performance categories. The momentum behind sports culture continues to influence the industry through collaborations and cross-category innovation. A strong example this season was Rick Owens presenting his collaboration with Adidas directly on the runway, highlighting how performance and luxury continue to merge.
At the same time, we’re reducing investment in heavy layering pieces. Today’s consumers increasingly seek ease, versatility and relaxed dressing, moving away from styling that feels overly complicated or physically heavy.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Willy Chavarria remains one of the new brands we’ve been closely following over the past two seasons. For SS27 in Paris, the brand demonstrated a compelling balance between heritage and innovation. Beyond its collaboration with Ugg, the presentation also introduced an AI-powered virtual try-on experience at Espace Niemeyer. While the aesthetic draws heavily from classic American silhouettes, the brand continues to embrace new technology in a way that strengthens its contemporary identity.
What shifted this season: The biggest shift this season was the continued move toward a lighter, more functional wardrobe. We’re leaning further into elevated sportswear and versatile everyday pieces, while reducing buys in products designed primarily for heavy layering. Comfort, adaptability and longevity are becoming stronger buying priorities than trend-driven styling.
The season in one word: Fluidity. Beyond the expressive prints seen at Dries Van Noten, fluidity was also reflected through lace, fringe and the natural drape of silk across many collections. Movement wasn’t only created through silhouettes, but through texture and fabric, giving garments a sense of softness, ease and effortless motion.
How did you handle the heat: Paris experienced unusually high temperatures this season, serving as another reminder of how closely fashion is now responding to climate.
In a city where people rely far less on air conditioning than in many parts of Asia, adapting meant returning to simple, instinctive solutions: wearing lighter fabrics, carrying handheld fans and slowing the pace throughout the day. It also reinforced why breathable materials and effortless silhouettes are no longer just seasonal trends, but are increasingly essential to the way people want to dress.
Isla Lynch, buying director, Ssense
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Simone Rocha, Our Legacy.
What show best met the moment: Lemaire — a proper summer collection which spoke to the various seasonal shifts.
Trend that will matter: A lot more florals and softer colors for sure, more risk in silhouette and design — a real shift away from simplicity and being “quiet.”
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: Increasing spend across event-driven tailoring and shirts, taking more risks with crazier design. Pulling back from logos in general.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: Townwear is an interesting new brand from London that we’re watching.
What shifted this season: Again, just a real move away from simplicity. I think the customer is ready to get a bit freaky again in their personal style.
The season in one word: Emotional.
How did you handle the heat: I did some damage in the vintage stores on silk slips — the only way to stay cool and chic during the heatwave.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner, The Square Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Saint Laurent, Celine, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten.
What show best met the moment: The Dior show summarized perfectly both the trends of the season and what our customers are looking for at the moment. On top of that, the venue, the Musée Nissim de Camondo — the quintessence of Haussmannian Paris architecture and timeless interior style — is next door to where I have lived for so many years. So, the perfect combination.
Trend that will matter: The lightness and easiness that we all crave for in summer is the strongest trend this SS27 season. Shorts, pants, tops and outerwear in easy-to-wear fabrics, toned-down colors and comfortable fits — pieces you keep to add to your summer wardrobe.
Trend that won’t matter: As much as I like soft tailoring and suiting pieces, these are not bestsellers in our market yet.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are up for brands with the right desirable products. Of course, the price point is key. High prices are not an issue at all for us if they are in line with brand perception and desirability, fit and quality of fabrics, execution and timelessness.
Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back: For summer, we do increase our spend on light, easy pieces with a twist: a special color distinctive to a brand, a new fit or a brand-recognizable detail. Pieces or categories that are too fitted, uncomfortable or too directional are not a priority for our market. Our customers have dynamic lifestyles: they work, they travel, they go out, so they need easy-to-wear, versatile products that can be worn for multiple occasions.
New designer discoveries or new brand buys: As much as new creative forces are key to our industry, finding new talents with a long-term commercial force behind them can be challenging. But we need to take risks — it is the exciting part of the fashion business. We usually introduce new brands for fall-winter, which is a stronger season for us.
What shifted this season: We still see a lot of jackets at all shows, and this is not the first season. All different types of jackets — from soft unstructured to fitted tailoring. It gives the men’s silhouette a really strong identity. Let’s hope this major wardrobe piece will enter our customers’ dressing habits. With the heat and sporty/outdoor lifestyles still so strong, it remains a challenge.
The season in one word: Light.
How did you handle the heat: We are very grateful to work in an industry that offers so many benefits. So yes, the heat was there, but very bearable compared with what others experienced.
