A Hidden Tuscan Luxury Haven, Argentaia, Offers Serenity and Heritage

Driving up the steep gravel road, the sight of Argentaia, with its stone walls, perched on a hill of the Tuscan Maremma, with sweeping views of the Mediterranean is both surprising and intriguing.

Nestled among fruit trees, olive groves, vineyards and centuries-old oaks and erected on the ruins of a 12th century monastery of cloistered nuns, luxury hospitality estate Argentaia is the brainchild of owner Paolo Vico, who used recovered materials and antique techniques to create his vision during the 14 years he spent developing the project.

After almost three decades as a trader on Wall Street, Vico returned to Italy in 2014 longing to embrace the history of his country, but was disappointed to find “so many places that had been covered in concrete, so many new industrial areas.

“We have a cultural and architectural heritage that is unique in the world; this is one of our strengths and this is what we should enhance, not to copy blueprints that are not ours historically,” he muses.

Argentaia spans over 80 hectares and, through the use of Roman construction techniques, the consumption of water and energy have been minimized and the heating and cooling of floors and walls were made more efficient. “I like to work with what nature offers us and existing materials. The wood here is recovered, we employed 180,000 recovered tiles and 380,000 antique bricks from the 15^th century onward,” Vico explains, praising the artisans that used handcrafted stones locally quarried and other elements such as iron and wood to create a stunning castle-like setting.

Passionate about art and architecture, Vico studied engineering techniques, and poured himself into the design process. The walls in one room are covered in hundreds of his early sketches for Argentaia, ideas of what was to become.

“You can build things going back to what made us famous around the world, giving new impulse for others to blossom,” he says.

Argentaia is peppered with bread sculptures by Matteo Lucca; works by Matteo Pugliese and street artist Pixel Pancho; monumental horse sculptures by Mexican artist Gustavo Aceves, and Vico’s own paintings.

There are seven suites available for guests, with iron or hand-carved stone fireplaces and private roof decks. Soft linen sheets and bathroom towels by Soddu in natural earthy shades contribute to the mood in the rooms.  

While Vico has been careful to avoid any kind of ostentation, Argentaia offers a spa, a tennis court, a stunning 100-foot saltwater infinity pool overlooking the valley, and a movie theater. There are stone vaulted wine cellars, as the estate produces its own wine, such as the Monnallegra Vermentino or Le Papesse Sangiovese, in addition to olive oil. “Even before the restoration began, I planted nine hectares of vines to complement the one hectare that was already there with vines over 75 years old,” says Vico.

Argentaia is rented on an exclusive weekly basis and, at the price tag of 130,000 euros,  it promises privacy, which Vico believes is what its guests — mainly Americans — treasure as a real luxury. “It’s all word of mouth, and Americans are fascinated by Italian history,” Vico contends. Secrecy shrouds the guest list, although photos of John Legend and the Beckhams at Argentaia have popped on social media.

The estate is located at around 24 miles from the town of Grosseto and its military airport, which allows guest to fly in with private jets, and Argentaia has a helipad if a trip to Rome or Florence is on the agenda.

Nearby are the medieval villages of Magliano, Capalbio,  Pitigliano, Talamone and Pereta. Rare birds including pink flamingos can be spotted in the Orbetello lagoon; on one side stands the Maremma Park and on the other side the Argentario Mount, hence the name Argentaia, as well as the natural baths of Saturnia.

Amenities upon request include wine tasting, cooking lessons for children and adults, a sports instructor for horse riding or motocross to kite surfing.

However, Vico notes many guests opt to just settle into the “extraordinary peace and serenity of Argentaia, where you can reconnect with nature. We have neglected spirituality for too long. After all, the hill on which Argentaia was built was considered sacred, and it stands opposite ancient Etruscan burial sites.”

Food is not an afterthought and Vico says chef and house manager Alessandro Lelli shares his values of “sober elegance and beauty, always seeking something special to offer our guests.”

To be sure, Lelli has a way of enhancing raw materials, blending the experience he built in Japan with Italian traditional techniques. His dry-aged sea bass acquires a crunchiness and taste that is really special and his blend of fennel, smoked salmon, pepper and other secret ingredients is mouth-watering, as is his eel in Teriyaki sauce.

There is also a spot for shopping available, with a few silk pajamas and slipdresses by Veronica Sgaravatti, and pieces by Loro Piana or Sease. The LabSolue fragrances by Vico’s wife Ambra Martone, who helms the ICR Industrie Cosmetiche Riunite with her father, founder Roberto Martone, are also on sale and the brand’s olfactory journey fills the rooms and common spaces of Argentaia (the Martone family owns the Magna Pars l’Hotel à Parfum in Milan).

As Vico puts it, “Italy is filled with hidden gems,” and Argentaia is surely one of them.