LONDON – There was only one “Mrs. B,” a retailer perpetually on the hunt for fresh design talent who was never afraid to take a chance on young, unknown designers or international names that piqued her interest.
Joan Burstein spent her career in retail, buying and selling luxury fashion and mentoring designers and staff members. She also cared for her customers and cultivated chic wherever she went.
Here, members of the industry remember her wit, talent and determination to live a stylish life.
The British Fashion Council: “A pioneering force in British fashion retail, Joan Burstein played a defining role in shaping the industry as we know it today, championing emerging designers with conviction, insight and an unwavering commitment to creativity. Through her work, she helped establish London as a global center for innovation and talent, supporting generations of designers at the earliest stages of their careers. Her legacy will be felt for years to come, not only in what she built, but in the confidence and visibility she gave to so many. Our thoughts are with her family, friends, and all those whose careers she touched.”
Sir Paul Smith: “Joan Burstein had a unique eye and, coupled with the commercial skill of her husband Sidney, they built a wonderful business in South Molton Street. I was fortunate enough to work in the men’s design room at Browns for a short but formative period early in my career. Joan was a rarity in this industry with the balance of commerciality, vision and elegance. I’ll remember her for her extraordinary warmth.”
Manolo Blahnik: “Mrs. Burstein played a pivotal role in discovering and nurturing the young designers of my generation and those who followed. She truly believed in their potential and championed their creativity with unwavering support. I am deeply grateful for the guidance and encouragement she offered me throughout my career, and I will always cherish her impact on my journey. She lived a remarkable life and will be profoundly missed.”
Angela Missoni: “My fashion icons were Joan Burstein, Joyce Ma, Claude Brouet and, of course my mother [Rosita Missoni]. Those ladies were, and are, perfection, the essence of class and allure. I miss Joan. When she opened Browns in 1970, she opened with Missoni’s 1970 ‘Put Together’ winter collection. Those were the days when she would receive an order and then call up customers to help her unbox the merchandise. She made the unboxing a ‘happening,’ a special moment and was selling the clothes before they even got to the shelves. She and my mother were close, and very respectful of each other. When I was young, I used to help Joan do the orders in our showroom in Sumirago [Italy] and can remember that my brother, Vittorio, did a summer internship at Browns when he was 19.”
Robert Forrest: “I started my life at Browns in the men’s shop but when Mrs. B asked me to move over to work with her and her teams in the women’s business it was the start of a lifelong career and friendship. She was a mentor to not only myself but many, many others. She has been a lifelong friend, and until the end a formidable Scrabble opponent every day at 5 p.m. myself all of her carers, visitors and family.
Sean Dixon, co-founder and managing director of Richard James: “I was a Saturday boy at Browns during the mid-‘80s. My first job and exposure to the world of fashion. Browns was unique at the time, the only place in London you could find ‘designer clothing’. The clients, the salespeople, everyone seemed impossibly glamorous and intimidating, especially to a wet-behind-the-ears teenage lad.
My first encounter with Mrs. B was fairly early on when I was told to venture from the safety of the men’s shop and bring something from the ladies’ store. Her warmth and welcoming smile instantly put me at ease. I instantly recognized I was in the presence of someone confident in all her style choices. The more time I spent in the store, the more I realized how important all her decisions were in creating the beautiful environment I was fortunate to work in.
“I know these words are sometimes overused but she was truly unique and will always be a legend in our industry. So many people owe her their very fortunate careers, me included.”
Cozette McCreery, fashion consultant: “As a teenager growing up in Woldingham [England], a trip up west with friends wouldn’t be complete without heading to the fashion mecca that was Browns, South Molton Street. In fairness, it was the only reason to go to that street.
“Even though we couldn’t afford the garments, we always admired the windows (often showcasing new talent). Amazingly, as it wasn’t the norm, staff were always happy for us to browse. I think much of that attitude filtered down from Mrs. B. Her ethos always seemed to be one of sharing, encouraging, and almost educating us about fashion.
“For my 21st, my parents brought me a tiny, burgundy bolero cardigan, a taffeta mini waistcoat (almost like a bra top) and high waisted legging trousers from the Romeo Gigli section. Mrs. B. was in store and told me all about the collection and how thrilled the designer would be to see me wearing it. I was dead chuffed.
“Many years later, I spoke with her about the meeting at some fashion event. Robert Forest reintroduced us. She was chatty and genuinely pleased that I was a regular in the store since my first wage check.”
Sarah Richardson: “Beautiful, graceful Mrs. B, what an incredible legacy, what an incredible woman. Not sure we would have had Lee McQueen, John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan without her sharp eye, impeccable taste, and giving people she believed in the opportunity to flourish. I definitely wouldn’t be where I am today without hers & Mr. B’s belief in me as a teen.”
