For those who love fashion to the point that they want to actually wear it and not just follow its fleeting thrills on a screen, there’s nothing more appealing than seeing a well-made product, thoughtful from material to fit, like one of the terrific leather or pony hair bomber jackets included in Durazzi Milano’s fall 2026 collection. No logos, no gimmicks, pure quality.
In times when designers are scratching their heads to figure out how to rev up sales, Ilenia Durazzi is slowly yet steadily growing them. Her brand is still niche, but in the span of just three years Durazzi has built credibility thanks to her precise viewpoint, polished aesthetic and design expertise forged by stints under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and at Maison Margiela, among others.
Her skills shined brighter in the straightforward showroom presentation she hosted for fall 2026. Despite her past artistic showcases helping to fuel the narrative around the brand and offering glimpses of the many erudite references in her world, this format let the collection speak for itself, enabling visitors to observe every detail.
Leather outerwear charmed with its supple hand and cocooning volumes; sheer chiffon upped the sensual quotient of Durazzi’s equestrian universe in tops and the pleated construction of kilts, while the mannish fabrics of her tailoring had subversive tweaks thanks to pony hair inserts, like those on the back pockets of a jacket or the lapels of a tuxedo, which made for the brand’s first step into eveningwear. Building on this nocturnal direction were liquid halter neck tops to pair with pony hair pencil skirts and short dresses with draped necklines and fringed detailing.
The separates in solid black, chocolate or shades of grays were the most charming pieces, but Durazzi also included decorative elements for the more eclectic souls, including patterns inspired by early 20th-century and black orchid motifs blooming on knitted jacquards and wool dresses.
The Durazzi community now comprises men, too. The designer integrated a selection of wardrobe archetypes — ranging from a cashmere coat and zippered knits to leather jackets and pants — revisited in fit for the male audience. They include the likes of artist Maurizio Cattelan and singer Emorpheus, who embody the brand’s cool clique in the look book images of the collection alongside gallerist and curator Emanuela Campoli, actress Eva Yelmani and stylist Viviane Hausstein.
