Jun Takahashi focused on utilizing zips and fasteners to create volume and drama on the body for spring 2025. The collection was presented alongside a breakfast of Japanese vegan food at Dover Street Paris on Sunday morning.
Central to the season was the idea of adjusting one’s clothes on the go. In their relaxed state, these were just easy-to-wear pieces for nine-to-five scenarios. But one pull or tweak and it was a whole different story. Waistlines could be cinched on t-shirts, bombers, and cardigans with fasteners for a more high-brow appeal.
The evening sections incorporated zips and corset lacings, the kind of fantasy garment one would expect from Takahashi. Elsewhere, feminine ruffles and inverted pleats clashed with bodycon, bondage-adjacent details to create couture-like silhouettes that came with a fashion point of view unique to Undercover.
The spiky, gold leather headpieces and lace face veils added a layer of ethereal angelic quality to the lineup.
Mirroring the men’s offering, the spring 2025 women’s collection included pieces featuring works of the Italian painter Robert Bosisio, who often explores the spaces between the real and the uncanny. Takahashi used needles to pick on the fabric to create a blurry dégradé effect between textures.
