How inventive of Carol Burnett’s costume designer Bob Mackie, for that famous “Gone With The Wind” sendup, to transform parlor curtains, rod included, into an unforgettable Scarlett O’Hara costume.
At a time when interior design, hospitality and fashion have never been closer, how cheeky of Donatella Versace to pilfer quilts from the Versace Home collection and transform them into a glamorous, portrait collar puffer jacket; a tutu, and a corset-topped, leg-baring ballgown as sexy as it was cozy.
The house’s bold, baroque prints formed the backbone of a strong Versace fall collection, also appearing on leggings, sculpted skater skirts, silky balloon-sleeve blouses – and lining long leather and wool coats.
The menswear must have sent Hanan Besovic into raptures, given all the sweeping coats, flashy shirts and gold hardware favored by the fashion commentator known by his Instagram handle I Deserve Couture. Some printed shirts and jeans were glazed with clear sequins for extra oomph.
From the moment the show lights went up at the giant streetcar depot, illuminating a very long black runway belching dry ice, you could feel the Versace fierceness that’s been missing the past few seasons. (You could also feel the over-the-top luxury of heated bench seats, and rococo-print lap blankets.)
The heels on shoes were shaped like daggers, the platforms could give you vertigo, and there were enough leather pants for a Peter Marino lookalike party.
You could quibble that the collection was too rooted in the past – but what a past! The extensive show notes highlighted that the studded, V-shaped collars and pockets were cribbed from the fall 1991 collection; the offset shoulders from fall 1997, and a pair of exceptional swagged-fringe dresses in gold and silver from the fall 1998 Atelier couture range.
The designer interspersed sleek black tailoring between more opulent looks, and her roomy black blazers looked cool shrugged over strapless minidresses, frilly bodysuits or a lingerie-style slip.
The dresses were terrific, from skater styles with crystal-embroidered skirts to chainmail gowns that may very well turn up on Oscar night on Sunday.
Versace did not offer previews this season, or backstage interviews, perhaps to avoid questions about the sale of the company – its American owner Capri is said to be in the late stages of finding a buyer – and about her own future as its longtime creative leader.
Luckily, the collection spoke for itself, clear and loud.
