Ukrainian Designers Hope for Growth as Fashion Week Returns to Kyiv

LONDON — With a symbolic demonstration of unity with designers and models walking down the stairs at the Ukrainian House at European Square, Ukrainian Fashion Week on Sunday returns to Kyiv for the first time since the Russia-Ukraine war escalated in February 2022. More than 50 brands are presenting their latest collections during the four-day showcase.

With safety measures like equipping accommodations and venues with bomb shelters in case of air raid sirens, Iryna Danylevska, founder and chief executive officer of Ukrainian Fashion Week, said nothing will stop fashion week this time, not even Russia’s constant provocations. Just last week, one of the biggest air attacks on Ukraine was launched on Kyiv, Odesa, Kharkiv, Dnipro and many smaller cities, killing seven people and causing widespread power blackouts.

Shows and presentations will be interrupted when the sound of the air raid siren kicks in, but they will resume afterward. Many designers have stockpiled electricity generators and portable power stations to keep production going for the past two years.

“Protecting our culture, our right to create, and our right to be Ukrainian is our mission,” Danylevska said, adding that while they refrained from inviting international guests due to safety concerns, international media such as The Guardian and British Vogue have commissioned local correspondents to cover the fashion week in person, while Elle France will be the only media to send an editor and photographer to Kyiv for it.

Fashion Week With Purpose

Ksenia Schnaider, who presented her spring 2024 collection in London alongside Elena Reva and Nadya Dzyak last September as part of Ukrainian Fashion Week’s effort to raise homegrown talent’s global visibility in the absence of a physical showcase in Kyiv, said the return of Ukrainian Fashion Week is a deeply symbolic and emotional moment for designers like her.

“It’s more than just a fashion event; it’s a statement of resilience and creativity under the most trying circumstances. The local fashion community has shown incredible strength and solidarity in making this happen. Despite the difficulties, everyone is united in their determination to showcase our culture, our art and our unwavering spirit to the world,” said Schnaider, adding that her message of resilience was met with wide resonance, which helps maintain a healthy global business and the launch of its second collaboration with Adidas Originals. 

The Collections

For spring 2025, Schnaider said the collection serves as a reflection of the duality of reality — balancing hope and hardship, resilience and vulnerability.

“This collection merges our signature sustainable practices with innovative designs that speak to the times we’re living in. Expect to see a lot of upcycled materials, bold silhouettes and elements that represent both the beauty and the fragility of our world. Guests at the show can expect an immersive experience that goes beyond fashion. It will be a narrative of our journey, showcasing how we’ve transformed challenges into inspiration,” she added.

Despite the unpredictability of the situation in Ukraine, with the ongoing conflict affecting every aspect of operations, from production logistics to market confidence, Schnaider believes there is always more that can be done, she said.

“Continued collaboration, raising awareness and supporting Ukrainian brands through purchases, partnerships and visibility on international platforms are key. Advocacy and ensuring that our stories are told and our voices are heard are also crucial. Every bit of support helps us not just to survive but to continue contributing to the global fashion landscape,” she said.

The Paris-based Lilia Litkovska, whose business has nearly doubled in size in the past year thanks to a growing list of wholesale partners, said that being in Kyiv “at this historic moment is crucial.” Her brand is doing an event in the Ukrainian capital for the first time in seven years. “It’s all about standing together and creating history in our own country,” she added.

“The spring 2025 collection is a conceptual journey that we’ve been meticulously crafting, symbolized through many elements. One of them will be white ribbons we are bringing to Kyiv from our Paris Fashion Week presentation that took place in March — guests of that presentation were writing wishes for Ukraine, and now we bring these wishes to people back home,” Litkovska said.

In addition to basing her production in Kyiv to support the local economy, Litkovska has also been an advocate for professional education. She established the School of Art x Craft four years ago to address the problem of skilled labor shortage in the local market.

“Hearing their success stories fills me with pride. Moving forward, the global fashion community can continue to support through educational initiatives, grants and exchange programs that nurture creative talent. Providing loyalty programs for Ukrainian students in various countries could also make a substantial difference,” said Litkovska.

Uncovering New Talent

The return of the physical showcase was made possible with support from Ukrainian designers, as well as Olena Zelenska, the first lady of Ukraine, who voiced her support through a video announcement last month, according to Danylevska.

“Our goal is to support and inspire, uncover new talents that have emerged during these challenging times, and showcase to the world the resilience and creativity of the Ukrainian fashion scene, which continues to thrive despite the war,” Danylevska added.

Danylevska said although the situation remains unpredictable and is constantly changing, fashion has played a visible role during the conflicts.

She pointed out that many Ukrainian designers shifted from creating fashion garments to producing essential military clothes and shoes when the full-scale Russian invasion started.

Designer Julie Paskal, who has presented collections in Paris before, uses her laser-cutting technique to create protective nets that can fend off drone attacks and save lives on the front line, in addition to beautiful dresses.

Paskal said the brand has been focusing more on the local market and switched to a direct-to-consumer model to bypass some of the barriers created by the war. “By this time we have gotten used to working in circumstances that felt impossible and insane to work in before. We still work in danger, to the sounds of air alerts and explosions, with unpredictable electricity blackouts, but now we have electric generators and EcoFlow [a portable power station.]”

“Our production is located in Ukraine, it’s not so easy to operate abroad, and the whole cycle is still heavily influenced by the war. Still, we plan to get back on track for the international market and Paris Fashion Week for spring 2025,” said Paskal, adding that every dress from the collection will be an homage to a certain design or technique the brand utilized over the years.

Symbolism in Design

Many designers have also created emblematic collections telling the world about what is happening in Ukraine through the language of fashion.

“They have conveyed the reality and resilience of the Ukrainian people, offering a unique form of universal, nonverbal communication that resonates globally. For instance, Nadya Dzyak, an admirer of bright colors created an all-black collection. Ksenia Schnaider created part of the collection, made from dead stock ties as a powerful symbol, as men in Ukraine no longer need ties, they are wearing military uniforms instead. Svitlana Bevza created a burned version of the signature spikelet necklace — as a symbolic reminder of the price paid for Ukrainian wheat,” said Danylevska.

Others are actively involved in the charity initiatives. Participants in the latest fashion week in Kyiv will contribute to raising funds for equipment for the palliative care unit for veterans at the Svyatenko Rehabilitation Clinic. Show attendees can donate via QR codes at the event venues as well.

Danylevska said fashion brands have donated more than 3 million hryvnias, or $72,000, and participated in more than 50 charity auctions and projects.

Kyiv-based designer Ivan Frolov, for example, launched a dedicated section on his brand’s website, detailing various charitable initiatives, including providing modular houses for families whose homes were destroyed by Russian attacks or tourniquets for stopping critical bleeding to save lives.

Gunia Project, meanwhile, produced the historical ethnographic art album “Ukraine and Ukrainians” in partnership with the Ivan Honchar Museum. Earlier this year, the brand also created a charity ornament dedicated to the return of Scythian gold to Ukraine in partnership with the Ministry of Culture and Information Policy.

In the meantime, Gunia Project has witnessed significant growth while stabilizing and enhancing its production and logistics processes, which were disrupted in 2022, according to Maria Gavryliuk, cofounder and co-creative director at Gunia Project. The brand is opening a new store in Lviv, the largest city in western Ukraine later this year.

The Fashion Opportunity

Gavryliuk said the return of Ukrainian Fashion Week is not just a social occasion, but a crucial economic event. “It serves as a significant platform for Ukrainian designers to showcase their work, engage with both local and international buyers, and assert their presence in the fashion industry despite the ongoing challenges,” she added.

On Sunday, the brand presented its spring 2025 collection in light tones to underscore the celebratory nature of the event and highlight Ukrainian wedding rituals. Gavryliuk said it will feature exclusive pieces created with a high degree of hand-craftsmanship and reflect a blend of contemporary fashion with traditional Ukrainian costume elements.

Tetyana Chumak’s label TG Botanical was also able to thrive during the conflict by aligning its business strategy with evolving consumer values and maintaining a strong commitment to sustainability. “If our work resonates with the global fashion community, their continued and active support will be invaluable not only for our recovery but to our overall growth,” she added.

Chumak said the brand was quick to adopt a cautious approach, focusing on small-scale productions and showcases to navigate the uncertain environment since the early stages of the full-scale war.

The brand’s production capabilities further improved this year thanks to rising local demand for ethically produced and sustainable fashion, as well as growing international interest and new collaborations. The brand has presented several collections during Copenhagen Fashion Week in the past two years.

“Our revenue streams are diverse, including collaborations with major retailers, direct orders from buyers and retail sales. While the global spending slump has posed challenges, the brand has benefited from a growing consumer shift toward sustainable and meaningful purchases. This trend has helped cushion the impact of the economic downturn and supported the brand’s recovery, allowing it to continue attracting a conscious global audience,” added Chumak.

The brand’s spring 2025 collection, according to Chumak, aims to “acknowledge the often harsh realities of our time while drawing deep inspiration from nature and sustainable practices.”

“Guests at our show can expect an experience that is both serene and powerful. Each piece in the collection tells its own story of resilience and harmony with the natural world. We aim to create an immersive atmosphere, inviting the audience to deeply connect with the ethos of TG Botanical,” added Chumak.