PARIS — China tariffs and their potential consequences for apparel manufacturing were among the main topics of conversation at the latest edition of Texworld and its adjacent Apparel Sourcing fair here, which saw an uptick in visitor numbers amid renewed interest in alternative sourcing destinations.
The event drew 8,500 fashion professionals, an increase of 10 percent versus the February 2024 edition. France, the U.K., Italy, Spain and Turkey were the countries most represented, with a notable increase in design teams visiting from the U.K.
“It’s positive, it’s a comeback,” said Julien Schmoll, marketing director at trade show operator Messe Frankfurt France.
Noting that overall exhibitors seemed happy with traffic, Schmoll said the season was defined by geopolitical uncertainty following U.S. President Donald Trump’s announcement of 10 percent tariffs on all Chinese imports. “Obviously Chinese manufacturers have to sell their goods somewhere — so they’re trying to maximize sales in Europe,” he said.
“I was talking to a supplier now whose morning calls are taken up with these tariffs already actioned on China,” relayed Stephen Njenga, creative lead menswear and womenswear for the family-owned German retailer C&A. “Even though he has a footprint in Vietnam, Bangladesh and Cambodia — China business is his biggest part.”
Outlining the challenges of this “new paradigm” as part of Texworld’s program of conferences, Anne-Laure Linget Riau, a consultant in procurement, supply chain and business development for major global brands, noted certain companies reliant on the U.S. for business were already rejigging their sourcing to exclude China.
“Companies selling a lot in the U.S. are needing to work on alternative scenarios just to secure business,” she said, forecasting that Vietnam “will be first in U.S. imports for next season,” while certain companies are considering how to assemble in the U.S. itself.
One potential impact for European brands to anticipate is the “friendshoring strategy” where the U.S. is actively promoting “friend” countries such as Vietnam and India. “European brands might face a lack of capacity as European buyers will come after the U.S,” she warned.
With a new show organization, including a hall rebuilt to host the Paris Olympics media center last year, Texworld sought to both diversify its offer and simplify its layout.
“It’s easier to navigate than ever before,” said C&A’s Njenga, who’s been sourcing at Texworld for 16 years. “There’s a bigger diversification of suppliers beyond China, beyond Bangladesh, India. We’re seeing Egyptian suppliers, Ethiopian suppliers, for a broader footprint overall.”
Njenga’s standouts included Oracle, a manufacturer from China whose technical fabrics — namely a very finely brushed pongee, which is water-repellent, breathable and four-layered — rank among the retailer’s bestselling pieces. “The selling point is the combination of the modern look and the fabric’s touch — the feel is supreme,” he said.
Among issues facing European sourcing teams this edition is the impact of legislation to combat greenwashing. Swiss sneaker brand On Running is facing a greenwashing action for claiming a model that is 100 percent “recyclable,” noted Texworld’s Schmoll.
Browsing the show, Lindsay Mathis, a designer working for British and European brands, said regulations have reduced the appeal of sustainability for certain clients, since items can’t be labeled unless they’re certified and fully traceable.
“There are still some customers that want to push for sustainable product, even if they can’t advertise it,” she said. “But some brands on the verge — if they can’t build a picture around it and put it on the label, then they’re saying it’s not that important. The reality is people still just want to have a new outfit for as cheap as possible.”
“We still buy into it, but it is very complicated — unless we’ve got a certification and full traceability, we don’t label it,” said Ellie Pearson, outerwear buyer for the British lifestyle chain Oliver Bonas, which has 90 stores across the U.K. and Ireland.
To facilitate traceability, Texworld signed 100 companies up to its Econogy offer — with the tagline “Where sustainability meets business” — and held regular guided tours for visitors.
Showing for the first time at Texworld as part of Econogy, George Liu, founder of Happytex, a China-based specialist in linen, hemp and ramie fabrics, said sourcing teams check if Happytex factories are audited, and processes are certified. Business at Texworld overall had been positive. “We’ve met some new customers” he said, naming linen crepes, linen washed and linen jacquards among bestsellers.
Attending to get up to speed on legislation and trends, Lenka Linhartova, founder of luxury brand Liberal Lark based in Prague, worried that “producers aren’t ready for new legislation — it’s a big revolution. A lot of green claims are not real.”
She observed European industry lobbying regarding the obligatory ratio of recycled polymer in fabrics could have a huge impact. “The biggest producers of recycled polymers are China and India. European industry, in the first draft of packaging legislation, they wanted to have a clause that in the E.U. this recycled polymer can only be used recycled from European post-consumer. That would mean Asia cannot import,” she said.
Others were more optimistic. Maria Batres, a streetwear developer for Spanish brand Born Studio, lauded the progress made in sustainable techniques among fabric makers from Asia, particularly.
Among innovations, her colleague Olivia Liern Bayon, a designer working with streetwear brands, praised a new knitwear technique to make quilting, as seen at Way O. “It wasn’t traditional quilt, it looked quilted, but it was knitted. This reduces process as you don’t need the filling — since normal quilting would be polyester filling. I haven’t seen anything like that before,” she said.
The duo also applauded the diversification of sourcing from Ethiopia. “This is new. I hadn’t thought about sourcing there,” said Batres.
Among other first-time exhibitors, Texworld welcomed its first manufacturer from Argentina. Buenos Aires-based Frione Industrias Textiles, a vertically integrated wool maker and supplier to Zara in Argentina, is hoping to compete with Italian wool manufacturers for European business.
Lauding Texworld for “high affordability,” the Oliver Bonas sourcing team was on the hunt for outerwear, wools, furs and soft wovens. “The trends forum is really helpful seeing where the fabric innovation is,” said Pearson. “You’ll have standard bases and see the new innovations, your usual fabric with a different technique, a different 3D texture, or a normal cotton with embroideries on them. We’re looking for that unique hero piece.”
Looking ahead to the next edition, Texworld intends to continue diversifying its offer for September. “We’re going to keep this structure and focus on alternative sourcing destinations and enhanced services,” Schmoll said.
