Tamara Ralph’s latest couture collection married her knack for an hourglass silhouette with inspirations from Asia.
Backstage, the Australian designer said it was a region that has long inspired, particularly for what her show notes later described as “ritual grace of traditional craftsmanship.”
Fans and origami, for example, were the main influences in the spring lineup. The former took pride of place, given the opening silhouette of a bustier bodice made of rays inlaid with mother-of-pearl, but also appeared as distracting protrusions marring the lines of fitted dresses at the hips.
Sharp folds inspired by paper arts yielded the most charming silhouettes, such as a pale blue dress with folds looking sharp but espousing the female form. They also livened up a pale pink coat dress, one of several options skewing toward daytime, such as little skirt suits.
This more tailored direction is gaining traction for the brand, with European and American customers most interested in them, she said.
Ralph did not strictly adhere to her far-flung inspirations, although there were sustained nods with the use of gold, an occasional touch of red but also porcelain glazes.
A later handful of exits leaned into Y2K vibes when models appeared in body skimming gowns with oval sunglasses, courtesy of Ralph’s collaboration with luxury small-batch eyewear-maker T.Henri, and crossed hair sticks peeking from high buns.
Throughout, it was ultimately all about corset constructions. These have long been a mainstay for the brand, highlighting the Australian designer’s experienced hand, but felt like just the thing at a moment when Lauren Sanchez Bezos draws eyes and camera clicks in Paris.
