Ruohan Nie has emerged as a dark horse in the quiet luxury market in China with her competitively priced, fluid and poetic cashmere and silk creations. Contextualizing the collection and finding a resonating narrative for the Western audience is no easy task, but Nie is getting better at it.
For fall 2025, the designer, who used to play the cello, drew inspiration from music, specifically the concept of “The Four Seasons” by great composers like Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and Sergei Rachmaninoff.
“Since we are doing seasonal collections it is interesting for me to find the symbols for my four seasons. This collection was about the snow. I used this unique weaving technique mimicking snowflakes crystallizing into each other for my statement pieces,” Nie said backstage.
The three-dimensional, origami-like structure offered visual stimulation to a collection that consisted mostly of drapey, relaxed silhouettes made using subtle, fine materials, such as worsted cashmere from Inner Mongolia, silk viscose blend from Italy, and jerseys from Japan.
Key pieces included sweeping coats with XL scarves, a padded striped jacket, a fishnet overall, a moss green layered wool dress, and sheer, textured knits resembling the fleeting moment of snow melting.
