Designer Adam Lippes’ mother was a decorator, and he himself has dabbled in that world with a furniture collaboration with British firm Oka, and has had his own homes featured in shelter magazines.
So it’s no surprise that interiors continue to influence his fashion collections. This season, it was a visit to architect and interior designer Jacques Garcia’s Villa Elena in Noto, Sicily, and the wild mix of 17th-century Flemish tapestries, velvets by Le Manach, silk jacquards and leopard-print carpets and upholstery that he found inspiring.
“He has so much soul in what he does, and I hope that the collection speaks to that soul,” said Lippes. That said, Lippes knows his customer and what she wants — polished sportswear that is not so out there that it takes away from her personality.
The inspiration came out in the exquisite fabrics that formed the basis for the enveloping collection full of easy, layered shapes, including chunky sweaters, wide-wale cords, and bias skirts and dresses cut without darts and seams, all in cool neutral tones punctuated with rich plum, merlot and mocha colors.
Some of the tailoring had a bit of asymmetry, which is an emerging fall trend, seen in the hems of wrap blanket skirts paired with tonal tops, while stirrup pants and zip-front sweaters added a sporty edge. He paid homage to the auteur of American sportswear Bonnie Cashin, with a caramel suede popover with a matching wrap skirt that was a great look.
There was lots of blanketing double-face cashmere outerwear, along with a fine leopard jacquard coat, following fall’s animal trend, and he cut a poncho in butter yellow ripstop silk, a fabric he worked for more than 18 months to develop.
For evening, crystal and metallic sequins were densely embroidered like tweed on a turtleneck and skirt set, and a pearlescent silk velvet bias gown was light and luscious. “Nobody uses silk velvet anymore because it’s fragile, but when you know, you know,” said Lippes. “It’s just how it shines, it’s incredible.”
Lippes has been expanding his accessories output; this season, he collaborated with Partlow on sleek Western boots. Next up? Handbags. He was off to Europe to do the final check before production begins. “We’re the only American designer to make bags in France,” he said of the luxury marker. “And there is a difference.”
