After opening its first flagship in Milan, Retori traveled to Paris to present its coed fall 2026 collection, dubbed Chapter 4.
Retori was founded in 2024 by Salma Rachid and is centered on dialogues with a diverse community of artists that each season inform its collections. Chapter 4 was inspired by Brazilian artist Gustavo Nazareno and his symbolically charged and theatrical works, enhanced by impactful chiaroscuro effects and influenced by his Catholic upbringing and encounter with the Afro-Brazilian faiths of Candomblé and Umbanda.
Cue Rachid’s sculptural silhouettes and layered, draped designs and dramatic capes. The creative director has been evolving Retori, and this collection was assured, comprehensive and solid.
Highly crafted outerwear with shawl collars came in cocooning volumes for both men and women in double wool, silk and cotton jacquard. Among the women’s standouts were the plunging V-neck dress in brushed cashmere and the cross-stitch knitted gowns with a draped top, as well as the full skirts crafted from wool and silk Lurex blends.
Egg-shaped jackets in flannel-bonded leather flanked blazers nipped at the waist in baby wool with a pony-hair effect.
Men’s elongated gabardines or cropped outerwear with detachable knitted collars and leather details complemented by flannel blazers and overshirts with matching pants; double-breasted overcoats in double wool, and alpaca-silk knitted suits telegraphed Retori’s aesthetic and the brand’s Italian manufacturing.
The color palette reflected Nazareno’s own, with obsidian black lit up by gold and crimson. The birds the artist frequently paints were represented by full skirts with ostrich feathers.
Retori is controlled by luxury Alsara Investment Group, established by Salma’s father Rachid Mohamed Rachid, which includes fashion and outerwear brand Khrisjoy; design venture Fromm, and eyewear company AKN Group, among others.
