Retailers Embrace Streamlined Minimalist Silhouettes and Relaxed Louche Dressing

The mood was clearly upbeat at New York Fashion Week, where streamlined, minimalist silhouettes and light, loose layers were evident throughout many collections.

During these uncertain times, many designers served up collections that were salable and had an ease, polish and sophistication. There was a return to Americana and sportswear, along with relaxed louche dressing and balloon silhouettes. Many of the collections featured fringe, feathers, leather, tulle, pleating, draping, hand-crochet and artisanal touches.

Among the favorite collections cited by retailers were Khaite, Diotima, Joseph Altuzarra, Kallmeyer, TWP, Brandon Maxwell, Toteme, Ulla Johnson, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Prabal Gurung, Zankov, Tory Burch, and Michael Kors. Retailers were excited about many of the up-and-coming female designers who showed their collections in New York, such as Frances Howie at Fforme, Ashlynn Park of Ashlyn New York, Stephanie Suberville at Heirlome and Maria McManus, along with other newcomers such as Gabe Gordon and Colleen Allen.

Here’s what retailers had to say:

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office & store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Mood: Blue skies and gentle transitional weather set us up for an upbeat, feel-good week as the global fashion tribe happily reconvened in New York. Creative confidence marked the collections, as both established and emerging designers gave us some of their best-ever work. A notable takeaway was a pervasive and calming beauty, an almost zen-like softness and ease perhaps designed for a disquieting world. 

Favorite collections: Khaite was a standout show as Catherine Holstein increasingly stakes her place on the global stage and becomes ever more self-assured with her signature mix of sensuous edginess. We loved the relaxed and softened organic silhouettes at Michael Kors. Jason Wu stretched himself to a new place with a highly creative collection inspired by Robert Rauschenberg, utilizing collage and assemblage for innovative constructions. Rachel Scott pulled off  a remarkable week, with both her craft-meets-couture first runway success at Diotima, as well as her spot-on debut collection for Proenza Schouler. Ashlyn and Toteme, still relatively “emerging designers,” showed sophisticated, beautiful collections that inspired us to change up our closets immediately into their new luxurious minimalism. Henry Zankov‘s first runway foray was whimsical and artistic. Prabal Gurung also showed a confident hand with a confection of a collection made even more pleasurable shown in the peaceful spiritual venue of Saint Bartholomew’s church. Altuzarra’s collection covered a desirable lifestyle from great tailoring, the “It” harem pant and creative floral applications. Brandon Maxwell hit a 10-year milestone in style and with confidence, with modern references to his Southwestern roots. 

Key trends: The prevailing trend, and antidote to turbulent, ever-changing times, was rather zen, languorous and quieting. Soft organic draping played a key role this week. Clothes felt sensuous without overt sexuality and bareness. Long lengths for all day were important, as were discreet layers of veiled transparency. References to Armani came to mind with the softened silhouettes, ballooning shapes and often airy layers. Both Donna Karan and Calvin Klein also came to mind through new takes on the luxurious pared-back ideas and organic draping. As a counterpoint to the cleaner vibe, there were numerous decorative trends — painterly watercolor prints; florals, both printed and appliquéd; fly-away feathers, and a whimsical use of shimmer and shine. Colors ranged from crisp refreshing all-white looks to summer black, to the new and welcome use of brown, earth tones and the exciting pops of vivid red and pink. Soft bombers and balloon harem pants felt like good items to track.

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Mood: The mood throughout the week was light and airy, with most designers playing it safe, and the calendar packed with back-to-back events. Pragmatic fashion and a return to refined American sportswear were unmistakable this season — seen in Kors’ polished ease, Ralph’s timeless tailoring, Partow’s clean separates, and TWP’s quietly intentional wardrobing for every day. 

Favorite collections: Diotima presented a strong debut runway show. It was bolder than most, with knits that unraveled, rich embellishments, daring prints and textures, and a sense of undone elegance. The white finale dress was a standout. Ashlyn delivered sculptural tailoring and fluid jersey pieces, all showcasing impressive craftsmanship. Toteme leaned into a quietly compelling minimalism. Crinkled and layered textures elevated simple staples with sophistication. Khaite offered exaggerated leather pieces and some of the best accessories of NYFW. Tory Burch brought joyful energy to the runway, with vibrant color and playful embellishment throughout.  Monse revisited some of the house’s greatest hits with a modern sensibility, while Brandon Maxwell reinforced his staying power with confident refinement. 

Key trends: Streamlined, minimalist silhouettes and light, loose layers defined the season’s mood. There was a sense of freedom in the styling — a clarity that felt distinctly American in its ease and intention.  Billowy balloon pants from Altuzarra to Michael Kors dominated the runways. Khaite’s leather kitten-heeled moccasins echoed that sensibility, offering a casual yet refined finish to everyday dressing. Coach’s Moto boot and accessories were another standout.

Discoveries: This NYFW underscored how vital emerging designers are to the future of American fashion. From Gabe Gordon’s debut and Colleen Allen’s refined collection to standout first runway shows by Diotima and Zankov, the season was rich with fresh perspectives. Designers like Emily Dawn Long, KUR, and Heirlome brought new energy to the conversation, while Area’s joyful shift in direction added a sense of play and possibility. 

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus

Mood: It’s a season of change and and you could feel all of the excitement and buzz in the air with the fashion landscape shifting. The shift could be felt at NYFW with a new roster of talent lining up to represent American fashion. Designer debuts set the tone this season, most notably with Rachel Scott presenting for Proenza Schouler and Nicholas Aburn for Area. Our American legends Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors opening the week and leading the way. Diotima and Zankov each unveiled their first runway collections. Brandon Maxwell capped the week with a celebration of his 10-year anniversary. The summer sunshine lingering in the air set the perfect backdrop for a fantastic start to the fashion marathon.

Favorite collections: Cate Holstein for Khaite pushed the boundaries with exploration of silhouette, proportion and deconstructed details. There was a raw edge to the collection that came through making the imperfect, just perfect. The black peplum jacket over a hand-knit crochet black skirt, the sleeveless sculpted ivory hand-knit with the sculpted black hand-knit skirt, the deconstructed denim skirt, the Western motifs, the oversize polka dot ball gown looks and the stellar lineup of accessories are going to delight our Khaite customer. Rachel Scott is a tour de force with two back-to-back knockout shows. First, she gave us a prelude at Proenza Schouler of what’s to come. You could see her influence with the texture, prints and artisanal hand to the fabrications. And her first runway show for Diotima was fantastic. It was sultry, sensual and joyful. Frances Howie for Fforme delivered a sleek and chic collection with the focus on fabric and details. The oversize spring coats, the white fringe T-shirt and skirt, luxe leather, hammered satin lace dress and the feather looks that ended the show made for a strong lineup.  Michael Kors’ wanderlust and dreamy collection made us want to pack up and travel the world. There was an ease, polish and sophistication to the collection that feels right for these times. Joseph Altuzarra’s collection was polished, sophisticated and elegant. The feather suit was a dream.

Key trends: Travel and wanderlust were in the air, expressed through easy, louche dressing and balloon pants. We saw a return to Americana and sportswear, with sporty anoraks, varsity stripes, crisp shirt stripes and pops of red making bold statements. Texture played a key role, often with an artisanal, handcrafted touch. Hand crochet and fishnet weaves showed up across ready-to-wear and accessories. Fringe abounded, while swoon-worthy feathers floated down the runways at Ulla Johnson, Altuzarra and Fforme. The low-slung, belted trench at Calvin Klein and Prabal Gurung stood out as key interpretations. Abstract florals were seen in both laser-cut and hand-appliqué designs. Accessories embraced craft: open-knit, handwoven market bags, structured frame bags, bold pendant necklaces and criss-cross open sandals. 

Discoveries: There is a strong lineup of emerging female designers showing at NYFW. It is so important, now more than ever, to have these voices lead the way in American fashion, including Frances Howie at Fforme, Ashlynn New York, Stephanie Suberville at Heirlome and Maria McManus, as well as the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund designers who all came front and center with shows and presentations — Julian Louie for Aubero, Gabe Gordon, Meruert Planul-Tolegen, Bernard James, Bach Mai and Don’t Let Disco. 

David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Mood: Fashion is meant to make you smile, and this week’s collections delivered plenty of joy. Fresh ideas from rising talents like Patricio Campillo and Henry Zankov felt invigorating, while mainstays Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Tory Burch all pushed their signatures forward. And if it was cheer you were after, Nicholas Aburn supplied it in spades — complete with pompoms — at his exuberant Area debut.

Favorite collections: Khaite, Brandon Maxwell, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler, Toteme, TWP.

Key trends: We’re all craving a dose of joy and optimism right now, and it was certainly felt in New York. Nearly every show offered up a pristine all-white look, but color and texture emerged as the real takeaways. At Proenza, Rachel Scott’s “prelude” collection underscored both — it was a pleasure to see the fluidity and tactility she brought to the house’s signature silhouettes. Red, in its most exuberant spring iteration, was having a moment: at Brandon Maxwell’s jubilant 10th-anniversary show, poppy shades lit up some of the standout looks. Tory Burch leaned into a quirky, off-beat palette that felt fresh and full of personality.

Discoveries: The evolution at Heirlome and Ashlyn is exciting to see, each brand sharpening its voice with confidence. And Campillo continues to stand apart — his meticulous construction and deft blend of fabrics feel light and refreshingly new. There was excitement around new spins on deeply practical pieces — TWP’s sharp trenches and the airy knit dressing at Toteme and Jenni Kayne stood out. But it wasn’t all about pragmatism: Fforme’s liquid silk dresses shimmered with ease, and Ulla Johnson’s abstract painterly prints struck a vibrant chord. As for trousers, the silhouette of the season looks to be the bubble pant, with Joseph Altuzarra offering perhaps the most covetable interpretation.

Angela Pieretti, womenswear buyer, Mitchells Stores

Mood: Overall, optimistic: lots of smiles, sunshine and celebrities. It’s an exciting fashion month with some creative shifts and debuts still to come.

Favorite collections: Khaite: The drama of it all — the lights, the pond, the mist and the music. Every piece of leather was better than the next. It was refreshing to see some print and floral embroidery — cool girls like floral too. Altuzarra: Elevated appliqué, 3D illusion, hula hoops without adding bulk — a magician. Michael Kors: The man creates effortless, sexy clothes for the entire size range. Thank you. Libertine: Sitting across from Cyndi Lauper and out comes a dude wearing black washed jeans and a T saying ‘DISCO.’ Look 1 or a crasher?

Key trends: Minimal, sophisticated, feminine. Black and white, red, earthy amber to orange tones, teal to sage to whisper blues and shades of happy pink. Monochromatic looks, bombers, utilitarian pockets, jackets that ranged from oversized to peplum to cropped, double layers, skirts, balloon pants, leather laser cuts, fringe, perforated touches, sheer peeks, open backs, high slits and tan legs. In shoes we continue to see designers prioritizing comfort without sacrificing style. Flat T-strap sandals, slim sneakers, slippers, boat shoes, kitten heels. Our bags come next spring will be slouchy, adorned and textured or refined in geometric top-handle shapes.  Don’t put away your envelope clutches, you’ll need them.

Discoveries: Rachel Scott’s presentation for Proenza Schouler — a tease of what’s to come. I’m ready to see more. It was great to have NYFW Live at Rockefeller Center back. It was a lovely way to share the energy and creative spirit the city gives us daily.

Prices: So far, no major difference from previous seasons.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Mood: This season in New York felt sophisticated, serious, and deeply considered. The overall mood leaned more wintery than summery, with darker palettes and heavier fabrics taking center stage — unexpected for this time of year. We appreciated the city’s designers choosing depth and gravitas instead. It marked a thoughtful moment in fashion, one that spoke to resilience, strength, and a desire for clothes built to last. Calvin Klein SS26, in particular, underscored this message with clean lines, sharp tailoring, and a renewed focus on the brand’s heritage minimalism.

Favorite collections: Khaite’s SS26 collection struck a perfect balance between architectural precision and sensual fluidity, which felt both deeply sophisticated and unmistakably New York. What impressed me most was how the brand managed to translate a sense of urban strength into silhouettes that remain wearable and covetable. It was a collection that not only captured the current mood but also delivered pieces that will resonate strongly with our customers.

Key trends: This season, the most striking trend was the dominance of heavy-duty leather and voluminous shapes. We saw a prevalence of dropped hemlines, balloon and hourglass silhouettes, and an unexpected use of leather and shearling for a summer season. The play with proportions created a strong sense of protection and drama, while details like exaggerated fringes and tassels added movement and character. It was a bold, uncompromising statement that reflected a shift towards clothes with presence and permanence.

Discoveries: For all the talk of newness at NYFW, little truly felt fresh — instead, the runways leaned heavier into winter moods than spring optimism. No new discoveries but the way brands presented stood out. Khaite once again demonstrated a mastery of presentation. The setting underscored the collection’s drama without overshadowing the clothes, creating an immersive moment where every detail — from lighting to soundtrack — amplified the power of the garments. Collina Strada also offered an intriguing show format with its shadow model concept, which played cleverly with perception and storytelling.

Prices: The collections spoke in richer textures and fabrics; price tags, when they arrive, will likely echo that shift upward.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Mood: The atmosphere carried a distinct sense of anticipation, as New York marks the first of many designer debuts. Overall, the collections were imbued with personality, optimism, and joy, highlighting the strength of a new generation of designers confidently sharing the stage with America’s most established names. Spring 2026 brought a sense of momentum. The season captured the fluid, evolving spirit of women’s lifestyles with New York as its natural backdrop.

Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren, Khaite, Ulla Johnson, Calvin Klein Collection, Toteme, Diotima

Key trends: This season was defined by a sense of laid-back elegance, with escapism emerging as a central theme. Ralph Lauren, Toteme, and Proenza Schouler anchored their collections in summer whites, presenting a refined and modern approach to spring dressing. Bohemian femininity took on a Western twist, as Ulla Johnson and LoveShackFancy leaned into lace and sheer fabrics with the balloon trouser being a must-have item for spring. Structured tailoring and voluminous silhouettes were showcased by Calvin Klein Collection, Khaite, Tory Burch, and Alexander Wang. Bold color also made a statement, from Ulla Johnson’s painterly prints to Zankov’s vibrant colorblocking.

Discoveries: New York signaled the start of a season filled with exciting debuts. Nicholas Aburn brought a bold new vision to Area, while Rachel Scott’s influence was felt in her first season with Proenza Schouler. Culture and community remain at the heart of what we come to New York Fashion Week to discover, with designers such as Kallmeyer, Colleen Allen, Fforme, Grace Ling, and Lii emerging as key voices to follow into spring 2026.

Prices: We continue to work closely with brand partners to minimize price increases and ensure collections balance aspiration with value, offering clients thoughtful investment pieces across categories.

Beth Buccini, chief executive officer, Kirna Zabete

Mood: The expectations were low, but fashion week really delivered this season. There was far more optimism and creativity in these uncertain times than I expected, which was wonderful to see. New York City also showed exceptionally well this week, with numerous designers opting for innovative venues for their events. It was great to kick off the week with Brandon Maxwell celebrating his 10th anniversary as an independent New York star. Rachel Scott’s debut at Proenza Schouler looked beautiful, as did her own line at Diotima, and it is wonderful to see her progress. Maria McManus and now Alejandra Alonso Rojas are leading the way with sustainability while also showing beautiful and innovative clothes that sell.

Favorite collections: Khaite, Kallmeyer, and TWP. Catherine Holstein’s shows are always the highlight of the week, and she continues to nail every category and shape how we all want to dress. Kallmeyer is such a supreme talent, and I adored every single look in her beautiful show. Daniella is such a star. TWP is just fabulous. Trish (Wescoat Pound) makes clothes that fit so well and sell like hotcakes. Her relaxed, casual aesthetic is a huge hit, and she keeps elevating her looks season after season. 

Key trends: We saw so much craftsmanship this season: lots of crochets, leather and tulle. There is a lovely mix of hard and soft, with an ease and sophistication in an elevated and effortless way. Pleating and draping are everywhere, as are black and white. 

Discoveries: We have our eyes on a few new people. It is more complicated than ever to be a new designer right now, and I’m thrilled to see new talent pushing boundaries. 

Prices: Pricing really depends on the brand, and so many designers are still not finalized in the showrooms. We are expecting a slight increase, and we are paying more attention than ever to the perceived value of an item, as we’re hearing it on the floor every day from customers. Most brands are working hard and are deeply aware of the tariff issue, trying to make their numbers consistent.

Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter

Mood: With this fresh chapter at Net-a-porter, we’re feeling excited and optimistic about the month ahead and NYFW proved to be the perfect start.

Favorite collections: In terms of set, Khaite had the most impressive set of the week. Fforme, Colleen Allen and Toteme showcased strong collections that really stood out this season.

Key trends: Monochromatic looks, sheer fabrics and crochet dresses dominated the New York runways this season. Calvin Klein embraced the monochrome trend, an aesthetic that was seen throughout the week. Delicate sheer layers were another key theme, often paired with soft tailoring — a styling approach that we saw at Khaite.  

Discoveries: I had the pleasure of meeting Stephanie from Heirlome and the collection was unique and her collection felt genuinely authentic. Commissioning Mexican artisans added a layer of storytelling and sense of cultural richness and craftsmanship to each piece.

Prices: Over the past few years, we’ve seen lots of prices increase. Many brands are being cautious, carefully evaluating how to maintain their pricing architecture. It’s clear they are working diligently to preserve both value perception and long-term customer trust, while navigating a more complex market.

Courtney Grant, senior vice president, buyer, Elysewalker

Mood: This season felt lighter than what we’ve seen in recent years — a soft, pastel palette with a whisper of the ’80s and a more feminine sensibility than in seasons past. There was an ease to the collections, an almost buoyant quality that made the clothes feel optimistic.

Favorite collections: Kallmeyer delivered her strongest collection to date — it felt like a defining moment for the brand, and it’s no surprise she’s nominated for CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year. Khaite continues to strike the balance between sharp tailoring and romance, and Altuzarra’s draping was masterful — timeless yet completely of the moment.

Key trends: We’re seeing pastels, long shorts becoming a real wardrobe staple, and a return to draping and organza that’s airy without being precious. Open-weave knitwear also had a strong showing, offering texture and lightness in equal measure.

Discoveries: It’s always exciting to see new voices at fashion week. I was struck by the freshness of Kulson, Mel Usine, Ossou, and Amiya — each bringing a unique point of view and reinforcing the sense that NYFW remains a platform for discovery.

April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi

Mood: The mood was upbeat, thanks to the creative spirit and sharp commercial sensibility presented across so many collections. There was also a strong sense of the fashion community coming together to support rising talents like Diotima and Zankov, who both had their runway debuts. The enthusiasm felt all the more meaningful against the backdrop of a challenging macro environment, a reminder of fashion’s resilience and its ability to bring people together.

Favorite Collections: Brandon Maxwell’s 10th anniversary collection started the week off on a high. The unexpected mix of madras plaids, feather trims, and graphic storybook-inspired prints all worked together — a perfect balance of personality and sophistication. Khaite showcased a new level of experimentation and range, which was refreshing to see. We also loved Fforme for its artful elegance, Kallmeyer for its fresh take on everyday dressing, Ashlyn for its confident femininity, and Ulla Johnson’s collaboration with the Helen Frankenthaler foundation.

Key trends: Novelty is back. A lot of great things happening with color, texture and print — even as a penchant for minimalism (a la Toteme and Brandon Maxwell) continues. Balloon-hem pants (seen at Altuzarra, Adam Lippes, Michael Kors and Ashlyn) are very much here to stay. Feather accents were spotted on eveningwear at Ulla Johnson, Brandon, Fforme and Altuzarra. Styling was all about creative layering — from scarves tied around the waist at Kallmeyer to the drop-waist trench coats at Prabal Gurung, Lafayette 148, Calvin Klein and TWP. Long pendant necklaces (a big hit on Moda this year) are the accessories trend of the moment — Ralph Lauren was one of many to showcase these. Lingerie dressing (corsets at Wiederhoeft, barely-there slips at Colleen Allen) is also having a resurgence.

Discoveries: We are excited to launch Mel Usine exclusively in Trunkshow. Designed by Stephen Biga —an alum of Gabriela Hearst, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler — the debut collection features romantic evening looks and floaty separates.

Prices: Brands are working hard to hold prices steady for customers as best they can, despite tariffs putting pressure on their bottom line. Overall we anticipate price increases in the midsingle digits, with the most significant increases coming from embroideries that rely on India’s local expertise.