Amid the frantic final day of Paris Couture Week, Rami Al Ali’s spring show felt like a serene oasis, not least because his venue had little reception so phones seemed to gradually drop into laps.
It was all the better to focus the attention, since the Syrian couturier’s sensual lineup was filled with soft silhouettes that felt effortless while revealing subtle effects that made them shine.
Take influences from his heritage.
While Al Ali is deeply involved in the preservation and perpetuation of the crafts of his homeland, beset by civil war and the Assad regime for nearly 15 years, he always infuses them into his creations with the lightest of hands.
Squint and you had a hint of pixelated motifs reminiscent of richly woven rugs tumbling down a mermaid sheath, an effect amplified by the transition between the raw silk bodice and the slinky embroidered skirt. And if you read wavy layers of chiffon as an evocation of wind-sculpted dunes, that was probably your imagination.
Throughout, the designer’s silhouettes had a breeziness that belied the complexity of their construction and a sensuality brought on by textures and even sound effects.
To wit, a dress of sequined bands seemed wrapped around the body, as if it were created in haste. As the model turned, a hint of its corset structure could be glimpsed on her back. Another example was the satisfying sound of a sequined jumpsuit, its lightweight material made substantial by the expansive surface work.
Even when delivering more classic shapes, the designer’s eye for pushing the envelope in terms of technique came through. On a soft cream bustier number with a voluminous skirt, sequins reminiscent of glittering scales seemed to melt into a millefeuille of chiffon layers.
But unlike magicians’ tricks, seeing where Al Ali applied his skills only served to increase the appreciation for his work rather than spoil the effect.
