For fall 2025, Pierre-Louis Mascia stayed true to his approach to fashion, reinventing his colorful style without straying from following his North Star, he said backstage before his first coed runway show in Milan on Friday.
Speaking of stars, the collection was actually dubbed “Bright Star,” inspired by John Keats’ iconic love sonnet.
Indeed, it was a romantic collection, with influences of both the Victorian era and the Italian Renaissance.
The collection was brimming with rich prints, often juxtaposed in clashing patterns. Mascia candidly admitted that he couldn’t imagine a lineup without prints, always aiming for newness in color schemes.
The Toulouse-born Mascia launched his namesake collection in 2008 in collaboration with the Uliassi siblings, owners of the storied silk printer Achille Pinto in Como, Italy, and the prints continue to be the leitmotif of his collections — for fall ranging from Baroque designs, Art Deco flowers and checks to Prince of Wales, or inspired by ikat patterns and toile de Jouy.
His customers are no wallflowers — and his men nonchalantly wear skirts. Cue the looks featuring a red military jacket over leopard-print pants, the pajama sets in contrasting patterns worn under shawls or cocooning stoles.
Shapes were fluid, as seen on flowing dresses, light long coats lined in silk, velvet pants, and silk blazers with a trompe l’oeil effect in printed denim. There were also Mascia’s staple kimonos.
The designer’s aesthetic is surely flamboyant and not everyone may want to style the looks in such a clashing manner. But taken separately the colors were beautiful and the garments sophisticated and cozy at the same time — and definitely will help their wearer stand out in a crowd.
