Paula Canovas del Vas’ quirky world may look like creative chaos, but she exercises control of it with a skilled hand and a firm vision. As she continues to build out her surrealistic universe on her own terms, her fall collection included her first looks specifically designed for men as well as a debut collaboration with Converse.
In an apparently random — but far from it — manner, signature vivid knitwear, printed mesh pieces, puffy skirts and hoof-shaped footwear mingled with patterned shirtdresses, some worn as skirts, others seemingly back-to-front. There were synthetic fur-fronted pants and bomber jackets festooned with grosgrain ribbon bows, as well as a new selection of printed T-shirts.
The Converse collaboration resulted in a cute bustier dress, its structured bodice standing tall, its graphic side-lacing details taken from the classic Chuck Norris style. It was paired with an over-the-knee version of the iconic sneakers, customized for the occasion with bright pink fabric flowers, handcrafted by Canovas del Vas’ mother to decorate the collection. The floral adornments were also found on the fingertips of paw-like fake-fur gloves that could plausibly become one of the statement accessories of the season.
Enhancing the sense of anarchy, her set this season featured a series of giant yellow piñata letters that the models paraded back and forth, spelling out words within the ornate salons of the Spanish Embassy, a contrast with her vibrant, pop-colored designs.
Each guest was handed a pencil and a card with a series of letters and invited to write a message using only the characters concerned. Inspired by the work of Gillian Wearing, the exercise was intended to be a reflection on the notion of authorship, anonymity and control, and tied in with the designer’s manifesto on creative freedom.
