PARIS — From Charlie Brown’s iconic zig-zag sweater to Snoopy and sister Belle’s designer outfits, there’s no denying the “Peanuts” universe is one where clothes matter.
Even so, it’s a plot line that had never been fully explored — until the “Snoopy in Style: A History of Peanuts and Fashion” exhibition in Paris, opening March 22 and running until April 5.
“The history of Peanuts and fashion is an untold story,” said Melissa Menta, senior vice president of marketing and communications of Peanuts Worldwide. “We know all the different things that we’ve done through the decades but it’s never been captured in one place.”
And it was only right to bring this exhibition that is part of the comic’s 75th anniversary to Paris.
Not only have his characters made multiple incursions in fashion over the years but Charles M. Schulz, or “Sparky” as he preferred to be called, also had a keen personal interest.
Charles M. Schulz in Paris.
Courtesy of Peanuts Worldwide.
During a 1990 visit for the “Snoopy in Fashion” exhibition at the Louvre, an occasion that also saw him inducted as a commander of France’s Ordre des Arts et Lettres by then-culture minister Jack Lang, the Peanuts creator even attended a couple runway shows.
“Sparky loved that too,” his widow Jeannie Schulz told WWD. “He was tuned into fashion even though he said he looked great in whatever he threw on.”
As a child, the artist was “the only one there who looked all tidied up and ready for a photo shoot” in school photos and he later formed a rapport with a clothing store in Santa Rosa, Calif., where the proprietors put together outfits for him, Jeannie Schulz said.
“But he used to say that a really handsome man looks great in anything he throws on,” she added.
This side of the “Peanuts” creator is a highlight of the two-week exhibit curated by the Charles M. Schulz Museum with the support of Sarah Andelman at the Hôtel du Grand Veneur, a listed 18th century building.
Then come the outfits of his characters, a device Schulz used to make them unique and immediately recognizable, explored through comic strips, photographs and early examples of licensed merchandise, such as signature character sweatshirts created by Connie Boucher’s Determine Productions as well as modern designer takes.
Another chapter explores the mutual influence of Peanuts and popular culture on each other. It also alights on more political moments, such as a story line around Peppermint Patty challenging her school rules on “proper attire for girls” that was published six months before a law was passed to allow girls to wear pants in school.
Among the hundreds of artifacts are recent licensed collaborations including ones with Lacoste, Converse and Uniqlo, which saw the artist Kaws give the characters his signature Xs for eyes — a rare digression from the original line art, said Menta. Another rule is the prohibition to “put words” in the characters’ mouths, which means only text that appeared in the 18,000-strong strip archive can be used.
At the heart of the exhibition are Snoopy and his sister Belle. From his first appearance in the comic strip sporting a flower on his collar in 1950, Charlie Brown’s faithful friend was always a fashion plate whose clothing reflected his personality and fantasy life.
After their dolls were introduced by Boucher, the pair went on to be dressed by dozens of designers and brands including Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Dries Van Noten, Balmain, Hermès, Gucci and Balenciaga over the decades.
Snoopy and Belle dressed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in 1980s.
Courtesy of Snoopy Worldwide.
And a new cohort of designers will be dressing Snoopy and his bird friend Woodstock, said Sarah Andelman, who helped enlist them and also curated a gift shop chockablock with collectibles, collaborations and a few re-editions for the occasion.
“There’s always a reason why [Peanuts] characters are dressed a certain way,” she said. “So I feel designers are touched and attuned to this.”
Another highlight is the friendship between the famously philosophical canine with a human born the same year: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
“When I arrived at Iceberg, I wanted to have an iconoclastic gesture and change the outlook on knitwear,” he said. “That’s what brought me to Snoopy because I liked his image and philosophy.”
A 1981 sweater featuring Snoopy and the words “To be or not to be” for the Italian brand was the first of successive appearances throughout de Castelbajac’s career.
It also sparked a lasting friendship with Schulz, the designer continued. “He called me Linus from time to time because I have always had a great affection for blankets.”
There were collaborations with Benetton, K-way and his eponymous brand. A blouson made of Snoopy plushies sported by Vanessa Paradis on his fall 1989 runway inspired the cape of “King Snoopy,” a figure sporting a crown made of Woodstocks that de Castelbajac developed with sculpture atelier Leblon Delienne.
More than a dive on the fashion side of Peanuts, the exhibition is about making Schulz known to a new generation.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and King Snoopy.
Courtesy of Peanuts Worldwide.
“My impression is that the new generation don’t know who Charles Schulz was,” said Andelman. “He was someone who was benevolent, who was generous, supported [causes]…Snoopy is not just commercial,” said Andelman.
Keeping the exhibition free to the public was therefore key, to make it accessible to the greater number. “I really just like the ‘no barriers’ [aspect] because that’s what Sparky believed in,” said Jeannie Schulz. Visitors will also receive a free zine.
There will also be a panel discussion moderated by Menta at 2 p.m. on March 22 at Apple’s Marché Saint-Germain flagship in the 6th arrondissement. Jeannie Schulz, Andelman and de Castelbajac will be alongside Charles M. Schulz museum director Gina Huntsinger and Matt Murphy, who designed the exhibition.
After Paris, Snoopy and friends will be featured in different ways around the world throughout the 75th anniversary year.
