LONDON — Kim Jones‘ next move with Chinese down jacket specialist Bosideng has been on everybody’s lips in the fashion industry in the past week.
Some claimed the contract is worth around $30 million, a number that can’t be verified by either party, though salespeople on the ground did mention this figure to customers, per WWD’s observation.
Over the weekend, the former designer at Dior Men and Fendi cut the ribbons twice with Bosideng brand ambassadors Yu Shi and Eileen Gu, respectively, at the brand’s stores in Shanghai’s Jing’an Kerry Centre, and Nanjing Road for the launch of the Areal line that he designed. He then joined a panel discussion by the Bund ahead of a lavish dinner at the same location.
The Areal line, under the creative direction of Jones, is billed as a premium offering that draws on the essence of Chinese nature and the rhythm of modern life, merging Bosideng’s manufacturing expertise with his contemporary aesthetic.
A quilted, goose down men’s jacket from the range retails for 2,399 renminbi, or $336, while a long, women’s goose down padded coat is priced at 3,999 renminbi, or $560.
Two looks from the Bosideng Areal line, designed by Kim Jones.
Courtesy of Bosideng
“Areal is Area plus Real. It speaks to an ongoing exploration of what is as yet undefined. With this collection, I want to show that luxury is within reach. My aim is a true union of style and warmth, bringing luxury performance wear a step closer to everyday life,” Jones explained over the panel discussion.
The long-term partnership between Bosideng and Jones was brokered by Raysun Shi, a strategist, curator and connector moving fluidly between leading Chinese fashion companies and international fashion talents.
A household name in China, Bosideng had been known primarily for functionality and technical expertise, but Shi believed that the brand’s future lies in fashion, and it needed a powerful catalyst like Jones to transform the brand from a heritage performance player to a fashion house with global relevance.
The market responded positively to Jones’ partnership, with Bosideng’s share price surging nearly 9 percent last Tuesday, its sharpest climb in three years.
Shi is also the force behind a slew of high-profile China deals, such as connecting Han Chong of Self-Portrait to set up a joint venture with the Shenzhen-based Ellassay, which has now led to more than 90 stores across the Greater China region.
Shi touted that this deal became a blueprint for other Chinese fashion companies to work with buzzy international fashion brands in recent years.
Shi has also helped Bosideng to secure a multiyear partnership in 2024 with Errolson Hugh of Acronym for the launch of the Vertex collection, which blends urban minimalism with utilitarian performance.
“Our mission has always been to drive the flourishing of global fashion within the Chinese market. We might not have the spotlight of celebrity editors or influencers, but we create meaningful value by turning cultural insight into creative strategy and creative strategy into real business,” Shi told WWD.
Looks from the Anta Zero collection by Kris Van Assche.
Julien Martinez Leclerc/Courtesy of Anta
Another influential broker between China and the world of fashion is Cui Dan, the long-time fashion director of the now-defunct GQ China, who later launched his own creative platform CanU.
He most recently facilitated the activewear giant Anta, which boasts some 7,000 stores in China, to link up with former Dior Homme and Berluti designer Kris Van Assche to spearhead the nascent Anta Zero subbrand.
The project allowed the Belgian designer to apply his tailoring prowess and soigné touch to a slate of sustainable fabrics for the Anta Zero project, which has already developed carbon-neutral sweatshirts and opened a sustainable concept store in Shanghai.
Cui said there has long been a mutual demand for international designers to seek opportunities in China, while Chinese fashion companies want these designers to help them with global expansion, image revitalization, or reaching new consumer groups.
Before the likes of Jones and Van Assche embracing opportunities in China, there were Fabio Piras at Giada under the Chinese group Redstone; Lutz Huelle at Koradior, a brand under the Shenzhen-based EEKA Fashion Group, and currently Mark Howard Thomas at Carven, which was acquired by the Shanghai-based Icicle in 2018.
“As the Chinese saying goes, ‘a monk from abroad has an easy time preaching.’ This reflects a widely understood need. So I don’t think we should frame it as designers seeking employment opportunities. They’re taking on projects; regardless of the offer, designers are essentially delivering work within their capabilities, whether to earn income or generate buzz,” Cui observed of the phenomenon.
He revealed that Van Assche’s opportunity arose from his discussions with Anta’s chief executive officer Tsui Yeung about advancing the Anta Zero line.
“We explored how to achieve commercial progress through sustainability, expand the sustainable collection commercially, and implement deep operational strategies effectively. This isn’t just about creating a concept; it requires product development and collaborating with internationally influential designers to execute this vision. Of course, Anta’s broader global expansion strategy also provided an excellent entry point,” Cui added.
The negotiation and preparation with Van Assche took more than a year, and it was Anta’s first large-scale campaign that was done with an external creative talent.
Cui believed that Van Assche’s tailoring expertise and understanding of design and sustainability, coupled with Anta’s mass-market accessibility and highly advanced research and development capability in the sportswear sector, mean this democratic range, price-capped at 4,000 renminbi, or $560, would resonate with fashion customers in China, as well as globally.
The first drop of the collection will go on sale at Dover Street Market Paris and other select retailers from Nov. 21.
Daniel Fletcher and Tina Jiang of Mithridate
Courtesy of Mithridate
For Yu Zi, founder of the London-based communication agency Arc Connect, who helped its client Mithridate to sign Daniel Fletcher as its creative director, the main objectives for Chinese brands when they seek collaborations with international designers remain more or less the same as those of Western fashion houses: working on the same seasonal structure and business model.
“The main difference is scale, as many Chinese brands have larger retail networks. Ultimately, their core goal is to expand and gain recognition in Western markets, with collaboration terms and contracts largely consistent with international standards.”
Yu said Chinese brands usually won’t commit a large budget just because the collaborator is a famous designer.
“Often, they start with a capsule collaboration to test the partnership. When the designer becomes more deeply involved, beyond just design and into the brand’s full 360-degree visual direction, the fee increases significantly,” she added.
While the Chinese market is highly specific and each brand has its own distinct needs, Yu observed that those who can communicate effectively, are internationally respected and understand the business side of fashion are generally favored.
She also highlighted that patience from both sides is crucial, as transforming a brand’s direction takes time, and designers also need time to understand the Chinese market, from fit to fabric.
“Clear communication and transparency are key throughout the process, and having a good translator is essential. The market will always give feedback, but it’s important not to become overly reactive. Consumer needs constantly shift, whereas a brand’s vision should be strong and enduring enough to stand the test of time,” Yu added.
