This season for the first time, the CFDA broadcast New York Fashion Week at Rockefeller Center for the public to see.
Well, if the people want fashion, look no further than Raul López’s Luar, which took over 30 Rock on Tuesday night. Lopez brought fashion — and Madonna — to the people. Yes, Lady M came, and the crowd gasped, just like last season when Beyoncé came — showing López means business.
A seasoned New Yorker, López is well versed at moving through many of Gotham’s diverse communities, and spring saw him zero in on punk. Not the signifiers one might think of, with a mohawk or spikes, but rather, a feeling.
“It’s how you present yourself. It’s how you think about it,” he said during a preview in his Wall Street studio. “Walking into a room and feeling hot. That’s punk.”
He called his collection “En Boca Quedó “ a Dominican phrase that loosely translates to “In your mouth, my name stays.” Judging from his powerful runway statement for all to see, Luar is here to stay.
The first look to hit the runway — an all-black idea with sheer corset, sheer black stockings over a panty, gloves and topped with frothy taffeta that crosses over the body and leaped over the shoulder like icing on a cupcake. Other looks were a shiny slip that glinted against the bright lights and subwoofers pounding music in the plaza — it almost made the clothes jump as they stomped the runway.
Sensual, sexy and interesting ideas on proportion are core themes to Lopez’s DNA, with his linebacker shoulders on tailoring, trenchcoats and new cocoon knit dresses or pony hair leopard print monstrously big outerwear. Swim was one new category added: teeny, tiny briefs with logo hardware.
Flocked denim showed up on classic jackets and jeans. “Denim is such a classic within any social class, it’s like a second skin,” he said, highlighting how most people wear it everyday.
Tailoring is also a strong category for him, but not just any suiting. A sheer almost legging pant, with a menswear fabric apron, was paired with a vest on a male model — defiantly a punk take on the perennial classic.
Eyewear and handbags remain strong. His Ana bag is ubiquitous with a recent collaboration with Amex, so he added a messenger bag. There was a lot to talk about in shoes, with thigh-high boots, kitten heels, oxfords and mules, all with the signature logo. The cool kids are going to buy them, but it’s a smart way to introduce the brand to new customers.
He name checked the different archetypes seen around town — “this is for my alo girl,” maybe one of his subversive leggings, or “this is for a Ralph girl” for the denim.
Lopez is a man of the people and the people came, including Ice Spice, Offset (on the runway) and Dascha Polanco and crowds gathered around 30 Rock to get a glimpse of his work, one of the final shows of the week.
After the pounding concert-like runway show, Luar is sure to be even more top of mind for many.
