MILAN — Innovation and positivity lifted the mood at Lineapelle.
“We are very pleased with the turnout at the fair, both in terms of numbers and provenance, with Asian and Middle Eastern countries proving particularly responsive,” said Fulvia Bacchi, chief executive officer of Lineapelle, commenting to WWD about the figures from the 105th edition of Lineapelle, held from Feb. 25 to 27 at Fiera Milano-Rho.
Of the 24,977 visitors registered, marking a 7 percent increase from the 23,800 last September, 18,833 were buyers, while the total number of exhibitors exceeded 1,100.
“Over the three days of the event, we sensed an optimism that had been missing for some time, along with a renewed drive to move forward with projects and a much-needed pragmatism. As for the collections on display, we saw many innovative products,” added Bacchi, who does not seem particularly concerned about the potential tariffs floated by U.S. President Donald Trump. “At the moment, they are just a threat, and in my opinion, they are unlikely to impact the sector significantly.”
The optimism felt at the fair came despite the latest figures on the Italian tanning sector, which for 2024, based on the most recent available ISTAT data (covering 11 months of the year), project an overall annual decline of 4.3 percent in revenue and a 7.6 percent drop in production volumes, with total exports falling 3 percent between January and November 2024.
Modern Meadow Bio-Vera pouch.
However, the downturn has not affected Bonaudo, a leading international player in the tanning industry specializing in high-quality leather production and processing, which closed 2024 with consolidated revenue of 89 million euros, up more than 15 percent from the previous year.
“We are entering 2025 with continuity following last year’s strong performance,” said Alessandro Iliprandi, CEO of Bonaudo, before unveiling Doll, the new color for the spring 2026 season, a warm pink shade. “This color is the cornerstone of our first branding campaign, underscoring our role in the luxury supply chain. We don’t aim to replace brands, but rather to be their partners, providing them with leathers of the highest quality, with strong appeal and a contemporary aesthetic,” Iliprandi added.
A sense of positivity was also echoed by Davide Aicardi, CEO of Altofare Group, the holding company backed by White Bridge Investments since 2021, which brings together 11 top-tier companies specializing in accessories and finishes for luxury handbags and footwear.
“We are in a phase of business consolidation, focusing on operational improvements to respond even more effectively to a volatile market. We aim to shorten lead times across the supply chain and provide increasingly swift responses. We look to 2025 with cautious optimism, especially for the second half of the year,” he told WWD.
A highlight of the fair was the second edition of Lineapelle Interiors, a dedicated exhibition project focused on the home decor sector, featuring 37 companies and 19 original installations.
“This is a format we strongly believe in to support the industry and help design companies enhance their performance,” said Gianni Russo, president of Lineapelle, in a statement. From Dooor’s movable wall made with Limonta fabrics to the vegetable-tanned leather flooring developed by Oscarmaschera in collaboration with Conceria Lo Stivale, and the children’s bedroom by Notte Fatata using leathers from Vincenza Pelli, Lineapelle Interiors “contributes to elevating the value of Made in Italy semi-finished products in design creations, amplifying their international appeal,” explained Maurizio Molini, the project’s creative director.
Lineapelle Interiors Vicenza Pelli for Notte Fatata.
Among the innovations was Modern Meadow, a U.S.-based company founded in 2011 in Nutley, N.J., that has developed a material combining a soy protein structure and a nylon matrix to mimic closely the natural properties of collagen found in leather.
“Bio-Vera is a soft, durable material that can be expressed in various colors and finishes for applications across fashion, footwear, automotive, and interior design. It looks, feels, performs, and even smells like natural materials while being designed for circularity. At the end of a product’s life, its components can be broken down and reintroduced into the material production process,” explained David Williamson, CEO of Modern Meadow. “Our goal is not to replace leather but to offer something new: a substrate that meets the growing demand for beautiful, animal-free materials while leveraging the deep expertise of the leather industry.”
An interesting product debut came from Swarovski Professionals, the Austrian crystal specialist’s B2B segment. In celebration of its 130th anniversary, the company introduced Star Cut, a range featuring a star-shaped precision-cut design set on a rounded base, marking an evolution in the brand’s crystal craftsmanship.
Swarovski Professionals
