“I’m gagged that I can’t use real fur!” LaQuan Smith declared at his LIC headquarters during a fall collection preview. But neither the CFDA’s fur ban — nor PETA — could squash his love of animal skins. And according to Smith’s personal philosophy, he “doesn’t do faux.”
Shearling (still allowed) proved a workaround for the designer, who treated it like arctic fox, lining hulking jackets and the hem of one uncharacteristically demure ivory shift. With her teased-out bouffant, the model who wore it had airs of Jackie Kennedy. But Smith had a sexier, more cinematic ‘60s character in mind. His name? Bond, James Bond.
Swaggy Sean Connery-style tailored pieces were peppered throughout, the most novel being a bow-tie fashioned into a bikini top. It conjured images of Bond girls like Honeychile Ryder and Jinx emerging from the ocean, but as Smith made clear, there wasn’t a specific one he referenced. “It’s more about the ideology of these different women and how they take on such strong personas.”
Perhaps she’s running an organized crime ring of female pilots in a crimson velvet pantsuit and naval-grazing blouse or jumping off the Eiffel Tower in an Alaïa-esque leather mini with zipper tracks that zigged and zagged like a high-speed car chase (Smith should costume May Day if Amazon MGM ever brings her back). But taken off the runway and out of the action sequence, these clothes might work wherever a license to kill, looks-wise, is necessary, say the boardroom or the nightclub.
Smith talked about “getting out of the catsuit thing,” his words for explaining that he’d like to explore more commercial opportunities. Sunglasses, made in partnership with Barton Parreira, are now a way to enter his world of divadom. Lingerie is another no-brainer according to Smith, who pointed out all of the lace trims and inserts.
To close, bugle-beaded nude-illusion gowns with silky mermaid skirts were supposed to walk in the finale. Whether it was due to financial or time constraints, it’s a shame they didn’t because Smith had big ambitions for these. “What’s the perfect Oscar’s dress?” he asked himself.
Somewhere, best supporting actress nominee Teyana Taylor is asking the same. Taylor, he’s got your answer.
