PARIS — French fashion brand Iro has streamlined operations and bolstered its executive ranks as it revamps its collections amid ongoing turbulence in the accessible luxury segment.
Isolde Andouard, who took over as chief executive officer of Iro in 2024, has spearheaded the reorganization, earlier this year appointing the brand’s first artistic director: Nicolas Rohaut, a veteran of luxury brands including Paco Rabanne, Dior and Lanvin.
He’s been charged with refreshing the look of the label founded by brothers Arik and Laurent Bitton in 2005, and known for its rock chic style.
At the end of last year, Andouard brought on board Marie Dardayrol-Sandevoir, who previously worked at L’Oréal and Parfums Christian Dior, as chief digital officer.
Her most recent hire is France Henneresse, who has been named chief commercial officer. The executive, who began her career within the LVMH Fashion Group at Marc Jacobs and Givenchy, joined Iro in May from Rabanne.
In the most visible sign of the brand’s momentum, its teams have moved into new headquarters in the trendy Belleville district of Paris, bringing the design studio and corporate teams under one roof for the first time.
“It sparks synergies, boosts creativity and creates a good atmosphere,” Andouard told WWD in an interview. “Everyone’s really engaged with the product: they get to see the artisans at work, the pattern makers, and the collections coming together.”
The move came hand-in-hand with a restructuring late last year that saw the headcount in Paris cut by around 20 percent to 110 people. Owned by Chinese group Ellassay, which also holds the Chinese rights for brands including Self-Portrait, Ed Hardy and Laurèl, Iro employs an additional 50 people at its subsidiary in China, 20 in South Korea and five in the U.S.
The brand is also rightsizing its retail operations. Iro has shuttered 13 loss-making stores so far this year. In tandem, it reduced the number of wholesale accounts by 35 percent last season, while keeping volumes stable.
“We want to stay strategic with our efforts, focusing on clients who have real potential to scale and grow,” the executive explained.
Breaking the Formula
The brand’s revenues are forecast to remain flat this year after totaling 100 million euros in 2024, thanks to a solid performance in Asia, which accounts for 51 percent of sales. This compensated for a slowdown in Europe, which represents 34 percent, and volatility in the U.S., which contributes 15 percent.
“Asia is very dynamic, and we plan to continue opening a few stores there. Europe, on the other hand, is a more mature and challenging market,” Andouard said.
Iro’s silver Sun handbag with fringes.
Courtesy of Iro
Iro has opened six boutiques so far this year, including locations in Beijing and Chengdu, and plans to add 11 in total by year-end, mostly in China.
It has 135 stores worldwide: 62 in China, 38 in South Korea, 14 in France, 12 in the rest of Europe, six in Russia and three in the U.S.
In addition, Iro has a wholesale presence in 600 points of sale, the bulk of which are in Europe. In the U.S., the brand is available at Neiman Marcus, Saks, Revolve and Shopbop, among others.
Describing 2024 as a “year of transformation,” Andouard said the decisions were necessary to navigate the global slowdown in luxury spending.
An Asia specialist who previously held senior roles at SMCP, the owner of contemporary labels Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot, as well as Ba&sh and underwear brand Undiz, she was charged with accelerating Iro’s international expansion, but rapidly realized the brand needed a deeper overhaul.
“I couldn’t just apply a formula I’d seen work elsewhere. Iro has a somewhat hybrid positioning within the advanced contemporary segment, a space that’s still evolving and full of potential, and I believe that gives us the freedom to rethink how we approach things and how we operate,” she said.
A Creative Refresh
Rohaut is due to present his first full collection, for spring 2026, on Oct. 3 during Paris Fashion Week in a presentation conceived with set designer Rémy Briere, who has worked with brands like Courrèges and Y-3. Having a creative director with a background in luxury has allowed Iro to sharpen its style proposition, Andouard said.
“Our clients today have tons of options. The market is super competitive. They’re looking for more than just a product,” she noted. “They’re looking for an attitude, a sense of identity.”
An image from Iro’s fall 2025 campaign.
Courtesy of Iro
The designer also had a hand in the cruise 2026 line, which was well received by buyers, who homed in on hero items like soft tailoring, leather jackets and poplin shirts. Showroom sales of the pre-collection in the U.S. were up 20 percent year-on-year, and Andouard expects global wholesale revenues to increase 10 percent this year.
“We’re starting to see clear signs that the transformation is working,” she said, noting that the brand is reaping the benefits of taking back control of its distribution in the U.S.
“It’s clear that the markets we handle ourselves — the U.S., our direct European clients and our franchise partners — are responding really well. There’s still work to do in regions managed by agents, where intermediaries are still involved,” she said.
She’s upbeat about prospects for the U.S., although there are no plans to open additional stores there at present.
“Even though the American market is under pressure, the strength of our brand’s story and positioning there gives us confidence in its potential. We’ve already seen encouraging growth over the past two seasons, and I’m quite optimistic that this momentum can continue in the seasons ahead,” she said.
Iro is also expanding in the Middle East, and continues to explore other new markets.
“While we’re well established in China and [South] Korea, we’re much less present in Japan and South Asia, making them key areas of potential. We’re also keeping an eye on India, which has shown strong interest in the brand and is experiencing rapid growth,” Andouard said.
