One of the rare megabrands whose fashions are immediately recognizable without logos, Giorgio Armani continually evolves but seems allergic to disruption.
And so Leo Dell’Orco, who worked beside the Italian founder for 40 years until his death last September, delivered a smooth, quintessentially Armani collection exalting soft and roomy tailoring, plush fabrics and cozy casualwear.
There were shimmers of newness in the appearance of iridescent textures and a bolder use of beyond-greige colors like olive, amethyst and lapis-lazuli, rarely in a jarring way except for one vivid blue velvet suit that flirted with flashy.
A youthful zest could also be felt in the meaty bomber and flight jackets, and the loose sweaters with drop shoulders tucked into big pants.
This was a generous collection spanning 136 exits, reprising familiar Armani silhouettes while retaining an agnostic attitude toward single-breasted versus double-breasted, and shawl collars versus band collars, yet resolutely committed to languid and loose everything.
Full-legged pants lapped over soft-soled suede shoes and boots in nearly every exit — in meaty washed silks, gray wool and corduroy that flowed like jersey.
Dell’Orca mostly favored monochromatic or tonal looks, which have been trending this abbreviated Milan men’s season, along with hats and the color purple. He blended those familiar Armani micro patterns in a range of grays and tans, then gradually introduced shots of richer, more demonstrative colors, like a green velvet shirt under a black shearling blouse, or a blue velvet, lapel-free jacket over flannel trousers as a snazzy option for evening.
The brand held two shows at its subterranean runway theater on Via Borgonuovo, with no set design per se, and many longtime models striding out in that breezy, chin-up Armani way, telegraphing continuity and nonchalance.
The ‘80s and ‘90s are percolating again in menswear, which puts Armani in pole position to reassert its heritage. It would be interesting to see what looks new, young design helpers might pluck from his archive, as they did at Paul Smith, to frisky effect.
Dell’Orco showed a few looks on women, and concluded the show with couples in like-minded outfits, emphasizing the founder’s pioneering role in revolutionizing tailoring and trailblazing a complete lifestyle proposition.
The press notes cited a collaboration with luxury knitwear brand Alanui on geometrically patterned cardigans for him and her, the boldest looks in the show, and perhaps another new pathway for Dell’Orco to explore.
He came out for his bow very much in the style of the Maestro, soaking up the applause and bowing slightly, then inviting his designing nephew Gianluca to share the moment. They did the house proud.
