For spring 2025, Gabriele Colangelo created a wardrobe for those who switch between seduction and elegance with ease.
The designer mentioned he wanted to hide surprises in his design. “When you look at it at the front, it’s very sophisticated, but when you look from the side or the back, it’s a surprise. I always love the back of the body because it looks more sensual and elegant,” he added.
His subtle ways of showing the body — a well-tailored open-back jacket with a leather knot that’s meant to be unknotted at the end of the night, or chine dresses with laser-cut dégradé stripe detail — met a celebration for Italian craftsmanship.
As seen in the look book featuring Saskia de Brauw, shot in Richmond, west London, the designer applied labor-intensive techniques on asymmetric skirts and dresses where the surface was fully covered with thin, leather stripes, creating a luxurious texture and contrast with the sheer fabric underneath. Colangelo’s love for fine leather could also be seen on a statement olive green coat and a summer bomber jacket.
He also cut the raw material for sequin to long stripes and combined them with raffias for some razzle-dazzle on the shoulder, or at the bottom of a skirt.
