Don’t be fooled by the profusion of Minnie Mouse-like polka-dots, heart shapes, bows and cute poodles – including two real ones – that Francesca Murri filled her spring 2026 show with. Her lighthearted display came with a subtle political agenda, and nowadays those come with merch in turn. In her case, a baseball cap perched on each wooden seat cheekily read “Make hearts beat again.”
That’s been both her mission since getting the creative helm of Fiorucci – to reignite that passion for a brand loved by so many for so long – and her commentary on the current geopolitical context.
“We all need a little bit of love right now. It’s really a peculiar moment,” she said backstage. And when things get that complex, one can either summon experts for help or seek advice in an even wiser bunch: children.
Murri’s show imagined the world seen through the innocent eyes of a child, where the real and surreal blur and cartoonish characters emerge. Lightness, irony and cheeky irreverence converged in a youthful lineup focused on mainly narrow and body-hugging silhouettes with occasional puffed sleeves and ruffled belts adding a comic-like vibe to looks.
Sticking to red, white and shades of blue, Murri kept things Pop but upped the sensuality for women and the preppy-ness for men. Under the former category were sheer tops with the brand’s signature angels covering the breast; lingerie-inspired bodysuits; a PVC trenchcoat with red piping, and plenty of lip-shaped tops and accessories in glossy finishes. Shrunken tank tops, cropped cardigans, low-waist shorts and pants with a sporty aura defined the latter.
Some of the best looks weren’t even truly there. Murri tapped artist Artist Janine Zaïs to turn archival striped tees and the Fiorucci cupids into body-painted artworks paired with cool denim pants with a triple-construction on the waist.
In general, this show was an improvement in the tricky journey Murri has embarked on to revamp the brand. The collection was more cohesive and the approachable urban setting felt more attuned to the spirit of the brand, too. Staged open-air in the courtyard of the Casa Fiorucci headquarters, the location was turned into Piazza Fiorucci, an imaginative square evoking a place of community-building. It can also be seen as square one to start a march – or a love revolution.
