The rise of weight loss drugs like Ozempic has prompted a noticeable shift on the runways as many designers have pulled back on size inclusivity, with model casting seemingly returning to fashion’s uber thin ideal of yore.
The phenomenon has not gone unnoticed by designer Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, who for the past four years have championed all sizes with their stretch-to-fit-all looks, and has been one of the few brands to do so in Paris.
So it was apt that they titled their spring 2025 collection “The Elephant in the Room,” complete with a giant sculpted elephant at the top of the runway.
“Everyone should do what they want to do, but when the norm becomes rigged by something quite defined and medical and conforming like Ozempic, for us it’s kind of an issue,” said Delepierre. “It’s not about being big or not, it’s about being welcome everywhere.”
So their collection unfolded on all shaped bodies — tall, small, round and muscular — celebrated in their signature stretch ruched designs and racy, lacy lingerie pieces by Chantelle X. There was a new emphasis on outerwear, using ruched and ruffled tulles, like fur on fun chubby jackets and elegant evening coats which were highlights. And tailored tie-front blazers came in an embossed leather with a cracked effect made using laser techniques.
Particularly on trend this season, their sheer play translated to dresses in tromp l’oeil body prints, or with trapped tulle ruffles, revealing sensual curves beneath. They also showed a wider range of their ladylike handbags with ruffly details.
Despite the important messaging (the collection is also made from largely recycled or deadstock materials), one still longed for a bit more evolution and precise execution from the designers.
