It was a collection of glorious contradictions, a dash of 1950’s Hollywood glamour and Savile Row rigor with an Italian twist. Most of all, it was a love letter to women – Mina was on the soundtrack, while the Italian singer-songwriter Giorgia sat front-row – and was brimming with beautiful, easy clothing.
Ermanno Scervino said he wanted to show off all of the silhouettes, fabrics and techniques he’s used over the years, and spin them into a collection for today.
“These are the pieces I’ve loved and worked with for 25 years. I wanted to mix them up, and look at them with a fresh perspective,” said Scervino, adding his team was working into the night on the collection. “It’s always a risk. It’s not like putting a classic gray suit on the catwalk – and I hope it works.”
The disparate references came together for a collection that was ultra-luxe with a quiet sensuality.
There was a 1950’s spirit with leopard-print coats, and black astrakhan pencil skirts and jackets. Pinup girl, off-the-shoulder cashmere sweaters, some with bows, and little shrugs were paired with full organza skirts in gentle neutrals – barely-there pink and cream – or sparkly column gowns.
Embroidered dresses also came with full skirts, as did fit-and-flare tailored coats. All of the silhouettes were soft-edged, slim and subtle, Dior New Look or Alfred Hitchcock heroine than “Grease.”
Tailoring, too, was soft. Roomy Prince of Wales check or Donegal tweed suits with strong shoulders, and long, featherweight cashmere coats with military flair moved down the catwalk with swagger. Scervino paired many of them with low-heeled cowboy boots, some paved with crystals, which added a touch of Vegas to the tailoring.
Even the slip dresses were demure. They’ve been all over the catwalks this season – short, long, Gothic, and borderline pornographic – but Scervino handled them wisely, adding a constructed bodice to a long lace and silk style, and slipping a chunky cream sweater-coat over the shoulders of a short pink one.
Unexpectedly, he styled some of those slinky looks, and the big, luscious faux fur coats, with sparkly loafers, or low heels. It doesn’t get more modern that that.
