Grab a box of popcorn and an XL drink — it’s time for another Hitchcock moment with Emilia Wickstead.
Last season the designer and vintage film fan looked to “The Birds” for inspiration, and for resort she came back for more psychological thrills.
This latest collection channels the colors and mood of “Vertigo,” where Kim Novak plays two cool blond women, Madeleine Elster and Judy Barton, who meet a disastrous end at the hands of James Stewart, the retired detective with vertigo who is stalking her.
Wickstead looked to the Hollywood costume legend Edith Head for her silhouettes and colors, and to the film’s interior and exterior sets. She drew her palette from the walls of homes, the cars parked on the street, and even a flower stall — all the places where Stewart spots her.
“I wondered what Madeleine and Judy would be wearing today, and I wanted to make it all effortless. These are pieces you can throw on — and not have to think about,” said Wickstead.
The collection had ’50s flair and was heavy on tailoring, a Wickstead signature. In addition, all styles can be made to order.
Tweed and tartan played a starring role in suits and dresses with nipped waists, while Wickstead took a collegiate turn, pairing a tartan kilt-like skirt with a chunky knit and a shirt with a statement collar.
There were sleeveless fit-and-flare dresses and pencil skirts were in the mix, too. Some were scattered with flowers while others came in arresting, saturated shades of red, pink and yellow, a wink to the film, which was shot in Technicolor.
Wickstead tapped further into the spirit of the film, creating a polka dot dress with a sheer organza overlay to create optical distortion and movement, or the “Vertigo effect,” that Hitchcock made famous.
With this chic collection in the can, the designer is ready to move on. Wickstead is in New York next week, doing bridal trunk shows and unveiling a collaboration with Paperless Post.
She’ll also be in-conversation with Kristina Blahnik and showcasing her bridal collection at the Manolo Blahnik store on Madison Avenue, selling her cinematic glamour to the U.S., which generates 65 percent of the brand’s sales.
