Elisabetta Franchi celebrated “free, resolute women, confident in their power and their sensuality without compromises” in her fall 2025 collection.
In fact, she turned to the ‘90s and the early 2000s for inspiration because “in the former decade women felt they had to dress as men, and in the following decade they reclaimed their dresses and their femininity,” said the creative director of her namesake brand.
Franchi admitted the customer she had in mind this season was similar to herself, someone “who wants to dress well and chooses less ostentatious” designs compared to her past collections. To be sure, the lineup, unveiled in Milan’s stunning and opulent 17th-century Palazzo Acerbi in the Baroque style, was more sophisticated, sleek and rigorous than expected. “I chose this location because of its grandeur and boldness,” which contrasted with the sharp tailoring of her pantsuits and statement coats.
The designer, a dedicated animal-rights activist, presented coats, biker jackets and shirts in mock crocodile, and the scales of the reptile were also reproduced in light embroidered dresses sparkling with sequins. Ditto for the furry looks, in sync with the trend in Milan, and the vinyl jackets, fetching also in a deep burgundy hue.
The focus was on the shoulders and on the waist, with sculptured and body-hugging dresses, midi pencil skirts and suits. The black looks were all lit up by gold details and buttons. Strategically placed cut-outs contributed to the sultriness of the evening dresses in jersey.
There’s no denying Franchi is a designer who is focused on catering to her community built over the years and, in this new phase with the arrival last year of former Gucci president Marco Bizzarri as an investor, she showed she’s staying true to her vision while further modernizing it.
