Elie Saab surprised with his final looks this season. After parading his traditional beading and capes, he sent out a trio of looks in denim for a collection titled “Portrait of a Dream.”
The first look wrapped around the body and draped over the arm in a style similar to a sari. The deep indigo shade served as a punctuation mark in the lineup full of sheer and gauzy gowns.
He also showed a jumpsuit and cape, while another look featured a dramatic Bardot neckline and corset, worn by Candice Swanepoel. Here he applied his traditional flower cutout and beading techniques across the bodice.
It’s the first time he has introduced the fabric in his couture collection. While denim has appeared on couture runways before, often as jeans or a jacket, and Saab shows jeans in his ready-to-wear, he did away with the formality of couture.
It represented a new direction for Saab, who usually dwells in sequins and sparkle. The designer was clear on the reason: “It’s about coolness,” he said backstage after the show.
The fabric can appeal to a younger demographic as the company continues its growth trajectory, as it has done by introducing items like hoodies in other collections.
“We’re developing the brand in different directions. The ready-to-wear is evolving significantly, and it shouldn’t be different than the couture,” added the brand’s chief executive officer Elie Saab Jr.
Other looks ran the Saab range of embellished gowns, this season turning to softer shades, and he used a lot of fringe and shawls to add movement. He was even keen to lighten up the traditional wedding dress, sending out his blushing bride in a dusty rose.
The collection comes after the designer’s entertainment extravaganza “The 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab,” held in Saudi Arabia last November. Part concert and part fashion show, the event was broadcast around the Middle East region.
“It was a very special event with an amazing reach, more than 4.5 billion in the region,” Saab Jr. said. “We are evaluating the next steps, but definitely it’s something that we felt has an added value to the world of entertainment and also to the brand.”
