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Duro Olowu Fall 2025 Ready to Wear Runway, Fashion Show & Collection Review

ā€œIā€™m a child of the ā€™70s, I grew up with harem pants,ā€ Duro Olowu recounted as a model wearing one of his busy fall looks strolled into the room, her voluminous pants tamed at the ankle with a cuff of fabric.

There were plenty of winks to his formative fashion decade, from palazzo pants and A-line skirts to shirts with oversized collars ā€“ and the nearly psychedelic prints that gave the collection its zing.

The designer gave a running commentary to a handful of editors who assembled in a Chelsea apartment decked out with flocked red wallpaper, a long, leopard sofa and layers of clashing kilims.

Olowuā€™s bold jumble of original prints ā€“ graphic swirls, stylized florals and stained-glass motifs ā€“ looked right at home, and fell somewhere between jarring and harmonious. ā€œIt just comes together,ā€ he shrugged when asked how he comes up with his mashups of color and print. ā€œA lot of it is instinct.ā€

ā€œElegant rebellionā€ is how he summed up the season, which hinged on classic tailoring shapes zhushed up with layers of pattern.

ā€œFunky grannyā€ was another descriptor he threw out for his midi-length fluted skirts and balloon-sleeved blouses.

There was an undercurrent of masculine swagger that made you think of musicians like Prince, or Miles Davis in the ā€™70s, whom Olowu name-checked when a spectator asked about a long, fringed scarf in that swirling pattern.

Done up mostly in silk-rayon fabrics, silk satin and jersey, the collection seduced with its fluid ease. That said, Olowu noted that he insists on a perfect crease in all of his trousers, including the harem pants.

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