“What do we need? Where are we going?” were the recurrent questions Dean and Dan Caten asked themselves when putting together their concise pre-fall 2025 range, where “form absolutely follows function,” as the former put it.
With a straightforward approach, the duo strictly concentrated on their go-to wardrobe staples, elevating pea coats and chino pants with sleek cuts or giving a luxe feel to a grey hoodie by employing a cashmere blend. In their quest to offer easy-to-approach, urban-chic pieces, the Catens also reworked tailoring with a sculptural hand to achieve flattering hourglass proportions, adding rounded volumes to parkas or turning oversized ribbed knits into cozy outerwear.
“We tried to have a little bit more of a merchandise sense, so when you look at [these items] in a store, there’s some harmony from one to the other,” Dan Caten said.
Other of the designers’ “obsessive essentials” such as denim separates and shearling and nylon jackets also made it to the edited selection, which had a strong focus on daytime and off-duty occasions.
Yet the Catens know their muse never shies away from some after-dusk celebrations, too. Only this season, nighttime attire was imbued with the same pragmatic and effortless spirit, as the duo favored one-piece looks. These encompassed body-con dresses with sensual cutouts, tuxedo jackets turned into belted gowns and elegant jumpsuits with pleats amplifying their volumes.
Overall, the collection offered fine, credible pieces, but the twins’ most loyal fans will run short of their eclectic mix-and-match and layering game. Not to worry: those fashion fireworks might be back on the runway soon, as the brand is gearing up to celebrate its 30th anniversary next year.
