Designers Light Up Milan with Sequins, Gold Threads for Spring 2025

MILAN — Feathers, sequins and flowery embellishments rained down on Milan’s evening and red carpet collections for spring 2025, which were statement-making, and unapologetically glamorous.

Labels ranging from Taller Marmo to Curiel and Gianluca Capannolo looked to past decades including the 1950s and 1960s for inspiration and, as always, focused on hand-craftsmanship.

Here are some of the outfits that lit up Milan.

Chiara Boni La Petite Robe drew inspiration for the new collection from India. The color palette included colors such as saffron yellow, gold, peach, orange blush and tobacco. In addition to the brand’s signature jersey fabric, a range of new ones was introduced, including a lightweight stretch cotton for safari-inspired shirtdresses and suits.

Chiffon was used to give fluidity and lightness to the white and beige long dresses, while a gold draped gown with 1970s vibes was made in silky Lycra. The collection also featured a strapless Lurex dress in earth tones and a turtleneck sleeveless dress in a similar color palette. 

Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea unveiled their Taller Marmo spring collection with a presentation inspired by a 1998 Vogue Italia editorial called “So Chic So Spectacular.” It featured Bonaveri mannequins dressed in the brand’s maximalist caftans and evening gowns made from silk organza and crepe chiffon. They posed at an imaginary house party set in the 1960s.

Ostrich feathers and handcrafted feather flowers added romance to the collection, which was inspired by the work of photographer Slim Aarons. Colors such as lemon yellow, apple green, aqua, lilac and orchid pink added tropical flair.

There were also column dresses and trapeze gowns made with jacquard fabrics with bold geometric motifs and Lurex threads. It was chic and fun.

Marina Rinaldi is on an occasion wear streak. The first season of the brand’s collaboration with Zuhair Murad has already landed on the shop floor, and it is hungry for more.

The brand said it will be focusing increasingly on the category, which is selling well worldwide, including in the Middle East. Marina Rinaldi is the only brand in the wider Max Mara group that accents evening and occasion wear and it’s building on that momentum.

Dresses were elegant, unfussy and showcased beautiful details: a powder pink caftan came with embroidered peonies, while a cream gown with cape sleeves was embellished with delicate leaves. A long mint jersey shirtdress came with a belt and strong shoulders.

Curiel, which is currently doing most of its business in China, with 30 shops in major cities, went big on eveningwear for spring. Sparkling velvet dresses were made with fabric from the original Curiel archive, and black, tuxedo-inspired styles had draping or pleating at the front. Other 1950s styles with rounded collars had an Audrey Hepburn feel.

The brand worked once again with Matteo Thiela, who creates couture dresses using miles of textured thread and a spinning mannequin. The threads wrap around the mannequin, and the designer is able to create various styles without the use of a needle and thread.

Thiela, who works with a variety of different threads, created a gold lame show-stopper for the Curiel Atelier collection.

Curiel also showcased a collaboration with the ballet and dance clothing manufacturer DellaLò Milano. There was a charming lineup of velvet and lace bodysuits, some with sleeves, as well as capes, shawls and little skirts all made for elegant, easy gestures.

Giada opted to stage a presentation rather than a runway show, and the collection was just as impactful. Designer Gabriele Colangelo created fine evening silhouettes, and embellished them with laser-cut roses and leaves. He scattered them across delicate organza dresses, some of which were adorned with delicate feathers.

Colangelo also worked silvery rose appliqués onto the surface of a double organza trench and daywear, too. Many of the tailored suits and coats came with small, silver rose sculptures at the waist, while outfits were accessorized with necklaces and earrings made from clusters of mother-of-pearl.

Gianluca Capannolo took a 1960s turn for spring, using Pop Art colors and flower shapes for his colorful day and eveningwear. He used Andy Warhol’s electric bright flowers as inspiration for a pattern on organza dresses, which were styled with chunky gold chain necklaces made from recycled plastic.

Silk brocade dresses, some with fabric flowers planted on the neckline, were done in gold lamé, or shot through with silvery threads in a collection that also took in a palette of chocolate, orange and black.