Caroline Groves doesn’t call herself a designer and she’s never worked for a brand. The 40-year footwear veteran likes to be known simply as a “craftsman.”
“What I do is entirely bespoke. People appreciate the service and the individual pieces,” said Groves, who makes her shoes — a mix of fantasy, fashion and art — by hand.
Groves only works with a small group of clients, including a handful in the U.S. market. Some customers have stayed loyal for decades; others purchase just a few pairs. Museums have also come calling over the years, as well as couture designers looking for advice.
“Bespoke work entails more than just custom fit. It is a dialogue between creator and client. Few shoemakers take on the fully comprehensive bespoke service that I provide.” said Groves.
Groves — who works in a studio in her Cotswolds garden — creates custom lasts for every client, and every shoe. “The purpose of a bespoke last is that it is unique to the client’s own measurements and foot shape rather than a standard size,” she explained.
Groves fashions her lasts in beech, maple, or hornbeam, all of which are sourced from European timber merchants. When required, trees are carved to fit the shoes or the boots.
The designer avoids synthetic glue when crafting her footwear.
The shoemaker’s focus is on high-heeled, hand-welted constructions that are hand sewn — meaning that uppers are welted to the insoles, and soles are hand stitched to welts. No synthetic glues are used in the construction, which is part of Groves’ sustainability mission.
Leather uppers are sourced from Italian and French tanneries that finish leather in small batches to ensure the highest quality. “I came to shoemaking via leather working. For me, the shoe is the ultimate expression of the possibilities of leather. In the best cases, it should demonstrate a number of qualities or characteristics of a variety of leathers,” said Groves, who noted her interest in leather started as a small girl.
The craftsman also emphasizes her linings, which she maintains are “as important” as the leathers given the fact that they actually touch the foot. Her go-to material for linings is calf, but silk is also used in some styles.
When it comes to embellishment, Groves experiments with details that range from understated from over-the-top, from vintage buttons and buckles to miniature hats and gloves.
The shoemaker has also become known for her use of taxidermy and birds’ wings. Her Turquoise Parakeet shoes were featured in the V&A Museum’s “Pleasure & Pain” exhibition. Another commission came from a Russian shoe museum.
Embroidery, needlework and patchwork and crochet are techniques that Groves uses often, giving her designs a multi-layered element.
Groves’ patchwork boots
Dan Lowe
For the holiday season, Groves is offering up a gift box that includes swatches and ideas for a custom pair of gifted shoes, based on the recipient’s personality and preferences.
