Chicago Collective Has a Successful Formula for Menswear Community

Not even the closets are safe from being commandeered as exhibit space for the Chicago Collective.

The popular twice-yearly trade show that has become a key event for men’s specialty retailers across the country has an extensive waiting list of brands seeking booths. But the organizers, the Chicago Merchandise Mart, have been constrained by a perennial lack of space within the apparel center.

“If there’s a closet available, we’re taking it,” said Danielle Owen, vice president of sales. “We’re looking for anything. Actually, we already did take a closet.”

“We’ve covered up bathroom doors — we’ve done it all,” added Monique Kielar, vice president of marketing, apparel.

Not to worry, there will still be plenty of restrooms available for those planning to attend the fall edition, slated for Saturday through Tuesday And while it’s not much, the duo managed to eke out space for two additional booths this time that will house brands from the Italian Trade Agency, bringing its total vendor list to 64.

All told, there will be 437 booths showcasing 744 brands on the seventh and fourth floors. The seventh floor, the original home of the show, was recently joined by the fourth floor, which houses a number of multibrand showrooms as well as some individual labels. “It has a different feeling,” Owen said of the more open fourth floor. “But certain brands want to be part of it.”

But the biggest player at the show continues to be the Italians, which have been a major presence there for several years. In addition to its collection of apparel, accessory and footwear brands, the ITA hosts an espresso and apertivo bar Sunday through Tuesday in the center of the seventh floor, and holds an off-site cocktail party every season. This year it will bring attendees and retailers together at a cocktail party at the Tortoise Supper Club on Monday night, a venue that is a short walk from the mart.

But that’s hardly the only event slated for this year. Barbour will continue to host complimentary breakfast and lunch Sunday through Tuesday as well as the coat and luggage check each day.

And there will be plenty of free alcohol — and some nonalcoholic options — on the show floor as well:

For the truly hardy, Uyn will be holding a Winterproof group run on Sunday morning at 6 a.m. Considering the temperatures in Chicago in February, participants will undoubtedly embrace the baselayer, balaclava and winter running socks the brand will be distributing in advance.

Once the show wraps up for the day, attendees are invited to join DL1961 on Sunday for the opening night party that will be held at Marshalls Landing on the second floor of the mart.

On Saturday, a more intimate group will be invited to the something new being introduced this season. The mart is launching what will become a series of dinner events where one vendor will be selected to invite up to 16 people for an intimate dinner in the Bosch/Thermador Gaggenau showroom, located in the historic vault of the Merchandise Mart National Bank, established in 1930. Triluxe, the multibrand showroom, will be the inaugural partner.

“We’re going to be partnering with new brands every season,” Kielar said. “We’re really excited about this location. It’s the original bank vault of the Merchandise Mart, and they’ve turned it into a dining room, which is spectacular. It’s such a cool space. We have a private chef making a dinner.”

In addition to allowing the brands to have some quality time with retailers, it also affords Kielar and Owen the same opportunity. “This dinner is going to help Danielle and I, and the brand, solidify relationships. We want to do it every season: invite new retailers, partner with a different brand, so it’s fresh.”

Although both have worked for the mart for years, they stepped into new roles last year upon the retirement of Bruce Schedler, the executive credited with transforming the regional trade show into the powerhouse it is today.

“With this transition, we’re trying to cover a lot of ground, and we’re trying to build these relationships,” Kielar said. “And I think this dinner is going to help.”

Both she and Owen have been careful not to make too many changes to the successful formula established under Schedler. “We’re just trying to continue the success that we’ve had over the last few years,” Kielar said. “That’s really important for a trade show — to not lose sight of what’s important, continue what we’re doing well and just expand upon that. I don’t think we need to change anything major at this moment. Our clients are happy, the retailers are coming. And as long as we can continue on that success, we’re happy.”

One place where they see opportunity, however, is in attracting international buyers. Coming shortly after the European runway shows and before New York Fashion Week, the Chicago Collective is known as a true order-writing show, and retailers from overseas can take advantage of that timing.

“If we can chip away at the international market a little bit every show, I think we can really make a difference,” Kielar said, adding that two Japanese retailers are expected to attend this edition.

But that doesn’t mean they’re giving up on the domestic market. “While we’ve already established connections in Canada, Mexico, Italy, Japan and Puerto Rico, we see further opportunities to engage buyers beyond the United States,” Kielar said.