MILAN — At a time when independent fashion retailers are trying to adapt to the shifting wholesale landscape and the days of e-tail dominance have given way to a renewed interest of the in-store experience, a new player has bowed in Milan, with a very precise value proposition.
Called Chapters and hinged on evolving its format and curation according to thematic installments, the retail project is the brainchild of Federica Montelli, a former head of fashion for Italy’s luxury department store Rinascente, which she exited in 2024.
Montelli embarked on the solo retail project less than a year ago and is now ready to make her permanent brick-and-mortar foray on the Milan retail scene.
“I’ve been wanting to do something of my own for a long time. Honestly, I’ve always envisioned myself as an entrepreneur, but I kept putting it off because staying in my comfort zone was easier….After 15 years at Rinascente, I felt like the time was ripe,” Montelli said in an interview over breakfast a week ahead of the official opening on Feb. 6.
Chapters started as an online venture last June but soon added temporary physical spaces. These included pop-ups at the Cala Maka beach club in Italy’s Apulia region and in tony summer destination Forte dei Marmi last summer, in addition to a monthlong unit inside Milan’s Fondazione Adolfo Pini last December for the Christmas holidays.
The permanent two-story flagship with floor-to-ceiling windows occupies a corner on Via Tommaso Grossi in central Milan, a stone’s throw from La Scala theater, the End store and the recently revamped Piazza Cordusio, home to Starbucks, Uniqlo and Arket, among other brands.
Inside the Chapters store in Milan.
Courtesy of Chapters
The space straddles romance and brutalism and was renovated by the CSMN Architects design firm. Brutalism resonates in the concrete displays and furniture of the ground floor, all decked in chalky off-white, including a monolithic centerpiece brick structure, while romance echoes in the upper floor — its amphitheater-like layout covered in maroon carpeting.
Curation has been a big part of Chapters’ identity from the get-go, rooted in a pragmatic yet research-driven offering, with brands including Nanuska, Gauchere, Nensi Dojaka, Retori, Vaillant, MSGM, Gia Borghini and Biagini, among others.
“The offering keeps our storytelling very focused and cohesive,” Montelli said. “Many of the choices I make are tied to brands that truly stand for something. My curation isn’t driven by big names or status. Instead, I want customers to discover pieces that have been intentionally selected for them. It’s about creating an experience, something the wholesale model has somewhat mostly lost,” she explained.
“One of the values I set from the beginning was to avoid over-purchasing and markdowns….I don’t want my business model to be built on promotions or discounts. This is how I personally define sustainability in my business model; it’s about consciously managing the process from start to finish,” she explained.
With the permanent Milan space, Montelli plans to collaborate with brands and host events, “positioning ourselves as a cultural hub in the city, not necessarily trying to push the avant-garde but striving to be a center of fresh, relevant ideas,” she said.
“The goal is to connect with customers in a way that feels real, without any gimmicks or unnecessary frills, balancing creativity and quality for both educated clients and casual visitors alike,” she said. “We want to sell quality and creativity without pushing some unrealistic dream world.”
Inside the Chapters store in Milan.
Alice Triggiani/Courtesy of Chapters
The store’s soft opening this month coincided with the kickoff of the 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympics, and Montelli paid homage to Milan with a minimalist chapter inspired by the city’s architectural codes and restrained elegance.
The next installment — titled “Vitaminic” and including a selection of colorful and uplifting pieces — will bow in the next few weeks as the store’s operations reach full speed, Montelli explained.
The success of earlier physical retail iterations has boosted Montelli’s confidence on the permanent Milan unit.
“So far, we’ve held our ground well, the customers recognize our approach. Feedback has been really positive. We’re serving women honestly, at fair prices.
“It’s a model that some brands appreciate and others don’t fully understand. The challenge is helping them see that it’s about creating the right context, in the right space rather than just the right mix of brands,” Montelli said.
“The biggest difference between what we’ve done before and what we’re planning for the Milan store lies in the visual impact of the storefront itself. I want the windows to feel alive, creating a sense of permeability between the street and the store. I envision the windows as hosting a lot of activation opportunities with brands and creating an experiential experience where people can connect with the product in fresh, engaging ways. It doesn’t need to be groundbreaking innovation; it just needs to feel different and exciting. I don’t want the space to feel self-referential or pretentious,” Montelli explained.
Federica Montelli
Sara Magni/Courtesy of Chapters
“The project, as it started, really reflects my vision of a multifaceted concept that, while currently heavily hinged on fashion, is open to expansion. For instance, we’re considering diving into beauty, possibly hospitality, and maybe even exploring opportunities abroad. Adding in food someday would be a dream,” Montelli said.
“Being small gives us the agility to stay flexible and fluid,” she said.
