Daniele Calcaterra felt the earth move under his feet this season with a collection inspired by the four elements. It was a handsome outing, filled with the designer’s signature large volumes, bold monochrome colors and unfussy adornments.
Calcaterra said he wanted to connect with nature and its many textures, such as tree bark, grains of sand and the lusciousness of a desert oasis. His colors were natural and neutral — black, white and taupe — with pops of dark red, meant to resemble blood — and vitality.
Calcaterra said he wants women to move in his clothes, so many of these silhouettes were free and easy.
A dark red dress with long, swingy fringes at the bottom was layered over little shorts and worn with flat chunky sole flat sandals. Ground-sweeping trousers, big coats and chubbies had fil coupé fringing that resembled sea grass.
Suits had a safari feel and came with wide legs, while jackets and coats were long and boxy. Other jackets, and a lineup of oversize white cotton shirts, were draped, folded or styled with long, D-ring belts.
These were impactful clothes, and most likely high-maintenance ones, too. When all of the drama dies down, who does all the ironing?
