Buyers Impressed by London Fashion Week Despite Compact Schedule for Fall 2025

LONDON — London Fashion Week’s schedule may have been compact this season, but retailers argued that it was a powerful one for Britishness and individuality.

Buyers were impressed by the resilient attitude of the designers who continued to push forward against a challenging backdrop in the U.K.

Many retailers eyed the statement faux fur pieces at Simone Rocha; Emilia Wickstead’s ’60s-inspired tailoring; Daniel Lee’s strong outerwear collection with layered cozy knits at Burberry.

Here, buyers discuss some of the week’s highlights.

Simon Longland, director of buying – fashion, Harrods

Favorite collection: Erdem delivered the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum. Huishan Zhang and Roksanda continued to shape London’s narrative, balancing precision with fluidity.

Top trends: Green in its many shades — mint, apple and grass — wove through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took center stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels. 

A ‘60s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while muted yet intentional tones defined Roksanda, Erdem and Edeline Lee.

Must-have pieces: Outerwear was a statement of both function and indulgence — Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware elevated utility into luxury. 

Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements.

Impressions of the week: Art left its mark — Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie brought portraiture to fabric, S.S. Daley channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form.

This season was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever.

Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director, Saks

Favorite collection: Simone Rocha’s collection inspired by “The Tortoise and the Hare” was a rebellious and nostalgic mix of her best work over the last 15 years. The collection included sculpted motorcycle jackets layered over chiffon skirts, bow ribbons, embroidered details on jacquard dresses and coats, statement faux fur pieces and a stellar lineup of accessories.

Daniel Lee’s take on the English countryside for Burberry was super chic. The lineup of statement outerwear, layered cozy knits, quilted floral barn coats and sweeping fringe dresses was super luxe and hit all the notes of Burberry spot-on. 

Erdem’s collaboration with artist Kaye Donachie was dreamy, with standouts including hand-painted portrait chiffon dresses in pastels, floral embroidery on coats and dresses and an evening lineup of sparkle fringe in mint green, lilac and dusty blue. 

Harris Reed’s dramatic and beautiful sculpted gowns felt like pieces of art ready to adorn the red carpet. The beauty of Reed’s work comes to life through the intricate details of every piece. 

Dilara Findikoğlu’s “Venus From Chaos” embodied everything that London Fashion Week is so well known for. It was a knockout collection and we are still thinking about the pearl, shell and safety pin corset.

Top trends: Statement outerwear, tailored separates, the return of the skirt and skirt suits, ladylike polish, fringe, paillettes, leather, floral embroideries and statement evening pieces.

Must-have pieces: Simone Rocha’s sculpted motorcycle jacket, ribbon fringe pieces and the darling tortoise clutch. Burberry’s floral barn jacket, over-the-knee boots and fringe dress. One of Erdem’s fringe looks in soft pastels. A corset by Dilara Findikoğlu.

New talent: Dilara Findikoğlu, 16Arlington and Paolo Carzana.

Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week has always held a unique voice in the fashion marathon. The last few days had some standout fashion with British designers holding center court. Simone Rocha, Burberry, Erdem and Harris Reed all delivered beautiful collections. Dilara Findikoglu kicked off the week with a sensual, strong and bold collection that held a lasting impression. We missed JW Anderson’s presence this week and look forward to Jonathan Anderson’s return soon.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collection: Simone Rocha, Erdem, Dilara Fındıkoğlu, and Harris Reed delivered exceptional collections this season.

Best show format: Dilara Fındıkoğlu’s choice to showcase her collection in a rundown building was both intentional and evocative — an extension of her signature aesthetic that created a nostalgic, old-school show atmosphere.

Richard Quinn’s snowfall on the runway was a truly striking moment, adding a layer of drama and spectacle to an already compelling presentation.

Top trends: Faux fur, midi-hemlines and bold layering took center stage with a strong undercurrent of Gothic romance woven throughout the collections of many London designers.

Must-have pieces: The faux fur bunnies and shawl from Simone Rocha, paired with the coordinating fur-trimmed bra, are standout statement pieces of the season.

Budgets up or down: Our business continues to grow consistently. Our open-to-buy is steadily increasing, reflecting our confidence in strategic expansion and our commitment to meeting customer demand.

New talent: Pauline Dujancour is a name to keep on radar.

Impressions of the week: While this season saw the absence of some of London’s most established names, it also provided a platform for emerging designers to step into the spotlight. London is undergoing a period of transformation — one that brings both challenges and exciting new possibilities.

Olivia von Christierson, buying manager, Net-a-porter

Favorite collection: Burberry, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead each displayed their brand’s DNA in a remarkable way. 

Best show format: The inclusion of iconic British landmarks such as Tate Britain, the British Museum and the Saatchi Gallery brought an added layer of cultural richness that elevated the experience. Another standout moment came from the format for Completedworks, who surprised us with another very original presentation, this time featuring the glamorous Debi Mazar as a shopping channel host, promoting the brand’s pearl jewelry. 

Top trends: This season was a celebration of outerwear, with standout leather styles from Burberry, Emilia Wickstead and Simone Rocha. 

Occasionwear also had a strong presence, particularly the ethereal dresses from Erdem and the beautiful series of gowns that closed the Emilia Wickstead show. 

Must-have pieces: Burberry’s over-the-knee leather boots emerged as a definitive wardrobe staple. Additionally, Erdem reimagined their bestselling Bloom bag in a fresh green embossed croc, making it a must-have accessory for the season ahead. 

Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week radiated a palpable sense of optimism and excitement, undeterred by the typical February weather. This season not only featured standout collections but also highlighted a significant shift in presentation strategies amidst economic challenges. 

The celebrity casting this season was particularly striking with a nod to the British talent featured throughout, adding an element of surprise and delight, from Alexa Chung, Fiona Shaw and Bel Powley at Simone Rocha to Richard E. Grant, Lesley Manville, Jason Isaacs and Naomi Campbell at Burberry. 

Linda Fargo, senior vice president of women’s fashion and director of store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collection: New York may have left an opening for no-holds-barred creativity but London answers that call with utterly unique and daring collections overall. Only London can give you Dilara Findikoğlu, Chopova Lowena and Paolo Carzana. 

A favorite show here was Simone Rocha’s both tender and tough collection.

Burberry is back and successfully re-rooted itself in its heritage with a rich autumnal collection with beautiful interplays of warm dark plaids, shearlings and leathers. 

Erdem’s artful show was fittingly staged at The British Museum. The soft watercolor portrait print of his mother no less, on delicate sheer organzas, were standouts, as were his hourglass constructions and floral dimensional embroideries.

The recent haute couture collections must have trickled into the tea here, as we saw incredible techniques and high glamour at Harris Reed and Richard Quinn.

Best show format: The best venues were set apart by some of the most evocative customized music. Top of mind and the most romantic came from Erdem’s track “Love Will Tear Us Apart” and Simone Rocha’s “Shall We Dance.”

Top trends: Trends to pick up here include great faux fur elements, day-to-night sequins, winter florals, the romance of bows and roses, innovative knitwear, and layered and deconstructed dressing.

Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collection: Erdem’s exploration of a blue period was a new, beautifully melancholic outing for the brand. 

Simone Rocha’s fall collection, inspired by “The Tortoise and the Hare” fable, introduced a tougher edge while staying true to the brand’s signature motifs. 

At Burberry, the English countryside was met with glamour. We saw an exceptional use of texture, fringe and rich colors, mixed with modern takes on the iconic Burberry plaid. 

Best show format: Richard Quinn’s escapist fashion in the form of a snow globe was magical and spectacular.

Top trends: Layered and playful textures continue to be important in London with knits, paillettes, pre-crinkled fabric and fuzzy faux fur making a statement. These softer elements were toughened up with leather buckles, harnesses, ‘60s silhouettes, burgundy, blues and touches of Miuccia Prada’s influence.

Must-have pieces: Simone Rocha faux fur fringe coat, a lighter-than-air Erdem dress featuring Donachie’s faces and over-the-top fringed hem trench coats at Burberry were all standouts from the shows.

New talent: Paolo Carzana continues to elevate and reimagine what clothing will look like in the future, and how it should be made. His dreamy creations, set against the backdrop of a small neighborhood pub, was a very compelling choice. 

It is exciting to watch Conner Ives, and other young designers, use their platforms to make an impact in powerful ways, pushing fashion forward with intention and creativity.

Impressions of the week: The schedule might have been quieter than previous seasons, but our time in London was bookended by two fantastic shows — Dilara Findikoğlu and Burberry — showcasing both the bright future of London fashion and paying homage to the iconic heritage that defines this city. The week was full of poignant, beautifully crafted collections.

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying, Selfridges

Favorite collection: Erdem had a standout show this season for us. A richly developed collection, especially the eveningwear, is sure to be very desirable with our clients.

Best show format: 16Arlington presented the beautiful collection, inspired by the ‘80s, with an intimate dinner and photo exhibition of the collection in an art gallery in Mayfair. Even the menu was ‘80s-inspired with a mushroom meatloaf as a main dish. It ensured all guests were fully immersed into the mood for the evening.

Labrum’s chosen venue of Abbey Roads studios to present the new collection by bringing onto stage three legendary musicians created a very special atmosphere especially with the performances from Double E, Ghetts, and Wretch 32 and Ezra collective.

Top trends: Dresses that were colorful and highly detailed, one of the key trends for me. Erdem, Simone Rocha and Roksanda presented beautiful gowns in all lengths on the runway this season. All very distinct and in their own right.

Must-have pieces: A gown from Erdem, a leather jacket from Simone Rocha and a suit from Labrum.

New talent: We are keeping an eye across the board, especially Fashion East this season.

Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week provided the base for great creativity and talent with brands being more and more established, also commercially, making for a lot of international buyers to find their way to London.

Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols

Favorite collection: The standout for me this season was Dilara Findikoğlu’s collection. The total effect and impact of her show were unforgettable. Her work has a dark romanticism with a rebellious, otherworldly energy. 

I always adore Erdem’s shows at the British Museum. The venue itself, one of my favourite buildings in London, adds a grandeur that further enhances the beauty of his collections. 

Top trends: This season has been all about rich and exaggerated textures. Brocades and jacquards are opulent and create depth, complexity and a sense of luxury that feels particularly relevant right now. 

In terms of colors, bottle green and chartreuse are emerging as dominant colors for the new season. 

Must-have pieces: S.S. Daley’s “Stay Faithful to Marianne” knit is a personal favorite. I’m also loving the Burberry green velvet suit — it has such a rich, luxurious feel, yet it’s versatile enough to be dressed up or down. The Erdem blue sequin coat was a total showstopper, I can’t stop thinking about it.

New talent: One designer I’m particularly excited about is Johanna Parv. Her unique perspective is starting to gain more attention. The use of technical fabrics for daywear feels modern and interesting.

Impressions of the week: This season the vibe has been one of pride and a celebration of Britishness, but it’s been brought to life in a way that feels both broad and wonderfully unexpected. The casting was diverse and inclusive, embracing a range of identities and backgrounds that reflect the true spirit of the U.K. 

There was also a distinct British punk edge to many of the collections, and a sense of rebellion, of individualism, that is unmistakably part of British fashion. It felt like a powerful reminder of what British fashion represents in its boldness, creativity, and defiance of tradition.

Stavros Karelis, founder and buying director, Machine-A

Favorite collection: SRVC and Dilara Findikoğlu.

Best show format: BFC Newgen recipient Marie Lueder having the ultimate rave. 

Top trends: London Fashion Week was never about trends. There is a notion of collectivity celebrating the individuality of each one of the designers showing during the week. These creatives are so unique in what they do that each one’s name is a symbol of a unique storytelling, of an individual craftsmanship applied and the community they engage with.

Must-have pieces: Maximilian Raynor’s long collar shirt, Jawara Alleyne’s shredded double polos, SRVC’s tailoring suit, Lueder’s “Men Are So Back” tank top, Charlie Constantinou’s skirt trousers and Dilara’s red velvet blazer with safety pins on the waist.  

Budgets up or down: Same in some instances. 

New talent: Maximilian Raynor, Petra Fagerstrom and William Oalmer, winners of the L’Oréal Award at the CSM MA.

Impressions of the week: Well-balanced with a good offer and diverse enough for anyone who was in attendance. London is the city to discover some of the best emerging talents worldwide and keep up with some of the most unique ideas in fashion and culture.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collection: The Erdem show seamlessly blended historical romanticism with ethereal elegance. The Kaye Donachie prints, juxtaposed with bolder black-and-white details, demonstrated the edge we look for in an Erdem piece.

Daniel Lee’s collection for Burberry continues to underscore the eccentricity of what Britain represents with guest appearances from Jason Isaacs, Lesley Manville, and Richard E. Grant. The undone attitude of the classic trench reinterpreted in shearling, leather, and fringe were standouts. It was a collection of statement outerwear perfect for our climate in Canada. 

Best show format: Anya Hindmarch’s Air Anya concept, which transformed her store into a retro-inspired airline experience, was a standout. We also love seeing how brands are moving beyond the traditional runway, engaging audiences through storytelling and experiential retail.

Top trends: We saw a beautiful blend of cinematic dressing from brands like Erdem, paired with sharp, ’60s-inspired tailoring from Emilia Wickstead. This fusion created a refined, elevated elegance, where soft, romantic silhouettes met the clean, structured lines of midcentury modernism.

Color and texture played defining roles this season — chartreuse emerged as a standout shade, making bold appearances in collections from Emilia Wickstead and Roksanda. Simone Rocha explored deep blues and greens, while paillettes at Roksanda and Erdem added interest, drama, and rich textural contrast.

Prints were everywhere, from delicate florals to bold animal prints to classic plaids, proving that pattern mixing is here to stay. 

Dramatic coats were also prominently featured, with bold silhouettes, rich fabrics, and unique detailing, redefining outerwear with a sense of grandeur and sophistication.

Must-have pieces: Simone Rocha’s tortoise clutch paired with a moto coat is a chic nod to “The Tortoise and the Hare,” symbolizing the power of slow and steady confidence.

A personalized travel bag adorned with the fun Air Anya charms.

The outerwear at Burberry was a standout, from the corduroy trench or the leather parkas styled perfectly with the iconic Burberry scarf in a heritage print. 

New talent: Paolo Carzana was this season’s emerging designer to know. We are fascinated by his work with materials and fabrics, from the hand-dyeing techniques using bed sheets and rose petal fibers to his silk-dyeing process with plant-based pigments, highlighting his dedication to both craftsmanship and sustainability.

Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week remains deeply rooted in the community and culture shaped by homegrown talent, with a new generation of designers now taking center stage.

This season delivered a unique contrast, blending nostalgia with modernity in a way that felt both familiar and fresh. Collections carried an underlying message of strength and resilience while maintaining a romantic, feminine edge, reimagining elements of the past to create a dynamic balance between heritage and innovation. In times of economic uncertainty, we can only hope designers continue to let us dream through the way we dress.

Jennifer Cuvillier, director of style, Le Bon Marché

Favorite collection: Daniel Lee at Burberry.

Top trends: Romantic countryside attitude, volume silhouette with dramatic effect, earthy color palette, winter flower prints and velvet.

Must-have pieces: Checks and tartan, tapisserie print, brushed and textured knitted pieces, enveloping coats, countryside coats, artisanal knits, dressy countryside dresses and leather jackets.

Impressions of the week: Creative and dynamic week with a balance between new designers and established U.K. designers who reinvented their codes.

Marc Rofsky, director of ready-to-wear buying, Moda Operandi

Favorite collection: Erdem gets better every season and is the consistent highlight of London Fashion Week with his exquisitely crafted designs and art-world storytelling. We are also excited by rising talent S.S. Daley, launching soon on Moda Operandi, and his charming approach to modernizing nostalgic British codes.  

Best show format: Richard Quinn’s snowy Georgian mansion, Connor Ives’ intimate setting with old-world model posing and Erdem’s night at the British Museum were each uniquely transformative and brand appropriate. 

Top trends: The collections delivered a welcome dose of crafty experimentation infusing that sense of playfulness in personal style that London always embraces best. Color really stuck out, especially in contrast to New York, which prioritized a notably more subdued palette. Sophisticated yet sculptural silhouettes, whimsy adornment, and vivid hues at Erdem, S.S. Daley, Roksanda, Emilia Wickstead and Burberry captured the mood best. The fur-like textile trend (albeit shearling or faux) we see in New York carried over into London, seen at Simone Rocha and Connor Ives.

Must-have pieces: Erdem’s art-adorned pieces are sure to be collectors’ items. S.S. Daley’s cropped toggle jackets and trenches. 

Budgets up or down: London represents a modest portion of our budget, while there is growth within key brands. 

New talent: Dilara Findikoğlu, Tolu Cocker, Feben and CSM graduate Petra Fagerstrom.

Impressions of the week: A strong sense of vibrant creativity and energy coming from emerging designers, despite a contracting show schedule.