GENEVA — It’s not surprising that Roman jeweler Bulgari is setting a new record in high watchmaking as it marks its first participation as an official exhibitor of the Watches and Wonders fair here.
After garnering nine records with its Octo Finissimo ultra-thin watches — the first iteration of which was launched in 2014, building on the Octo range introduced two years earlier — the Italian brand is unveiling the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, a 1.85-millimeter-thick timepiece that integrates a skeletonized tourbillon which is considered the thinnest tourbillon ever made so far.
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon launched in 2014 boasted a 1.95-mm thickness — already a record-breaking achievement for Bulgari, which marks its 25th anniversary of high watchmaking this year.
“Each record has been a stepping stone. Setting a record isn’t just about crossing barriers, it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking. With each challenge, we’ve had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive officer of Bulgari. Last week he was also appointed CEO of LVMH Watches, which comprises the Hublot, Zenith and Tag Heuer brands.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon encased in a 40-mm case crafted from sandblasted titanium and tungsten carbide main plate is powered by an in-house tourbillon caliber. Its extremely skeletonized construction allows the decorative spin of many of its key components to be highlighted, including the bezel flange’s polished slope, rhodium-plated tourbillon blocks and sunburst-finished bridge.
“The idea was to create a watch that encapsulates all our expertise. It’s not just about having the finest design but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo series, while respecting the integrity of its distinctive aesthetic codes,” said Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director at Bulgari. “Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, bears witness to our commitment to excellence,” he added.
Compared to its two, also record-breaking predecessors — the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, which featured decorrelated hour and minute dials — the family’s new tourbillon iteration features a single dial with rhodium-plated hour and minute hands set against a sand-blasted brass surface coated in gray PVD.
Bulgari said the new timepiece — retailing at 750,000 euros and limited to 20 pieces — resulted in its obtaining five patents across different innovations and techniques embedded in its development. Overall Bulgari boasts eight watchmaking-related patents.
The latest launch marks a milestone in the ongoing battle between high-watchmaking brands, which have made thinness one of their greatest strengths, including Richard Mille and Piaget, among others.
The Bulgari record-breaking Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon watch.
Courtesy of Bulgari
The landmark watch is making its official debut at the fairgrounds starting Tuesday. Bulgari is participating in the fair for the first time after showing independently in town during the trade show period for the past several years. The Roman jeweler, which used to take part in Baselworld before pulling out in 2018, is also among the founding members of Geneva Watch Days, an event traditionally staged in late August and launched in 2020.
In addition to the record-breaking timepiece, 2025 marks the evolution of the signature Serpenti watch franchise with the new Aeterna design, a timekeeping jewel crafted from gold and set with diamonds, marking the year of the snake in the Chinese calendar.
Developed over two years, the Serpenti Aeterna watch snaking around the wrist features a clasp closure mechanism and signature hexagonal scales etched in the inner contour. Available in rose gold set with diamonds, as well as in a high jewelry white gold iteration with a full diamond pavè extending to its frame and oversize gems scattered throughout, head to tail, both timepieces feature a snow-set diamond dial.
The Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna watch in rose gold.
Courtesy of Bulgari
“I like to design in a pure, contemporary style, with few decorative elements — to draw lines that speak the language of eternity. Octo Finissimo is a perfect expression of this quest for the absolute through form, which now transforms Serpenti,” said Buonamassa Stigliani. “Only a few strokes were needed to sketch Aeterna. The serpent is distilled to its essence, its own dynamic, refined to its most powerful form with visionary modernity.”
