Bulgari Inaugurates Expanded Valenza Facility

VALENZA, Italy — Bulgari officially inaugurated on Wednesday its newly expanded production facility in Valenza, which chief executive officer Jean-Christophe Babin proudly said “is now the largest single-brand jewelry manufacturing site in the world.”

“This is a symbol of Bulgari’s dynamism and ambition, and helps the country shine in a moment of uncertainty as a Made in Italy symbol,” said Babin, claiming that Bulgari is the only jeweler globally that produces its jewels entirely in its country of origin.

To be sure, the mood at the facility was upbeat and Babin, together with Toni Belloni, president of LVMH Italy, expressed confidence in the future of luxury. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton revenues in the first quarter dipped 2 percent and sales at its jewelry and watches unit was flat in the period, as reported on Monday. While Belloni admitted it was not possible to “make any forecasts in this moment of uncertainty, we have confidence that in the medium [and] long term, luxury will continue to grow and the distinctive values of the group’s brands will continue to create emotions.”

Belloni was also confident in Italy’s “favorable context, creativity, appreciation of art and culture, and human relationships that are unparalleled. The best response to the uncertainties is to do our job in the best possible way and offer products that are increasingly desirable.”

Among some of the LVMH investments channeled into the country, he cited the restoration of three Belmond hotels, the Grand Hotel Timeo in Taormina, the Splendido Mare in Portofino and Cipriani in Venice, and two new industrial projects — a new Louis Vuitton atelier in Pontassieve, Tuscany, and a new Loro Piana industrial campus in Ghemme, near Novara.

Babin, who in March was named CEO of LVMH Watches and now also oversees watchmakers Hublot, Zenith and Tag Heuer in addition to his current position, underscored how Bulgari is creating new jobs in an area traditionally known for its goldsmithing excellence. Currently covering 355,200 square feet, the Manifattura Bulgari, first unveiled in 2017 and now expanded by nearly 20.450 square feet, will hire more than 500 new craftsmen by 2029. Eight years after its initial opening, the new plant has grown to 1,100 jobs from 370 jobs in 2017, with the goal of exceeding 1,600 employees by 2029 and doubling its production capacity by then.

The Manifattura “embodies the brand’s holistic vision for manufacturing sites; combining environmental responsibility; transmitting the art of goldsmithing and craftsmanship to new generations, and the well-being of employees,” Babin said.

Indeed, during a walk-through, this appeared not as an afterthought, with plenty of light and space, greenery, a sprawling restaurant and rest and game areas — and a striking installation by the late Zaha Hadid in a courtyard, first unveiled during Milan Design Week in 2015.

The company has erected two new buildings alongside the complex inaugurated in 2017: one dedicated to production while the other housing the Scuola Bulgari of more than 10,700 square feet, both linked by an external suspended bridge to the existing structure.

Babin said the site is “a milestone in Bulgari’s vertical integration strategy, from raw material sourcing to the final creation, aiming to oversee the entire production process within a workplace that fosters continuous innovation and improvement.”

He highlighted with “artisans from more than 30 different nationalities, averagely aged 39, and 55 percent women,” Manifattura Bulgari “is a vibrant crossroads of cultures, fueled by a shared passion for excellence.”

The new Scuola Bulgari is the first publicly accessible Bulgari training school focused on jewelry, which will open in September. The school joins the existing Bulgari Jewelry Academy, opened in 2017. The school will offer professional courses in goldsmithing and gemstone setting with a microscope. It is developed and managed in partnership with TADS (Tarì Design School) — the renowned goldsmith training center of Centro Orafo Il Tarì in Marcianise, Italy. Eighty students are expected to enroll in the school and the courses last one year.

“Safeguarding and advancing traditional arts and crafts is an integral part of Bulgari’s identity and the students will be trained by master goldsmiths,” said Babin, adding that the school is recognized by the Italian Ministry of Education and aligned with European standards.

Babin also underscored how sustainability was central to the project, as the site relies on renewable energy sources to ensure that the expansion’s operations are substantially carbon neutral.

The factory expansion incorporates solutions that cover up to 50 percent of the facility’s energy needs, with the remainder supplied by 100 percent renewable energy sources.

An ambitious solar energy initiative includes more than 4,100 photovoltaic panels installed on the top of the central building and parking areas.

The new extension has been built using innovative technologies and low-impact materials to achieve LEED GOLD certification, which was already earned by the factory that opened in 2017.

Additionally, Bulgari has reforested a plot of 86,000 square feet with native tree species and collaborated with a local beekeeper for the installation of 10 hives, housing around 1 million bees — leading to a gift of locally produced honey to visitors at the opening.