Using words such as “folk” and “ethnic” in fashion has become tricky in the recent past, when the line between a tribute and cultural appropriation became thinner and social media way faster in stating on which side a collection fell.
Antonio Marras wasn’t afraid to utter both words during a walk-through of his pre-fall 2025 lineup, which again displayed his talent for concocting cultural melting pots and funneling them through his unique perspective. Storytelling is always his not-so-secret ingredient, adding flavor to his designs, which this time stemmed from a tale centered on the unearthing of an old, little hat.
The embroidered accessory inspired Marras to draw a parallel between his beloved Sardinia and the Balkan tradition, where the hat hailed from. “It’s the story of two cultures that look similar but they are indeed separate,” said the designer, before going through racks of richly printed garments and layered looks reinterpreting the blending of the two cultures.
The most eclectic results ranged from big shawls, shirt dresses and fluid frocks heavy with floral patterns — often printed on both sides — to beautiful parkas and vests, meticulously embroidered and decked with furry details. Botanical motifs, tassels and lace trimmings further defined robes and paneled skirts, with flowers galore used on everything from charming knitwear that Marras treated with a felted yet soft hand for a lived-in effect to the opulent damask fabrics turned into patchwork kimono jackets.
In his quest to convey a worn-out feel, the designer also added tiny handmade stitches to simple cashmere crewneck sweaters or washed out denim jackets and full skirts before embroidering them with sparkly touches or floral appliqués.
The textural exuberance was occasionally interrupted by crinkled tailoring and unfussy jersey pieces in solid colors intended to be layered with beaded tulle blouses and skirts, which further spotlighted Marras’ artisanal approach. As for his passion for mannish fabrics, they had a big role in the collection, with pinstripes, Prince of Wales checks and herringbone patterns used in oversize coats, cropped jackets with detachable layers, kilts and pleated skirts.
To further embellish her looks, the Marras woman can rely on an ever-growing accessories range. A new high-wedged clog in popping colors was the style the designer was most proud of. “It’s a shoe style that my father used to sell. It’s been four years that I’ve been trying to remake it with a shape I’m happy of,” he said, holding the design in his hands and pointing to matching bags.
