The mood at the Vivienne Westwood spring 2025 show was completely changed as Andreas Kronthaler seems to be stepping out of the mourning period following the death of the iconic designer.
This season was all about the one thing he liked a lifetime ago — namely sexy, perky women, said Kronthaler backstage — but in a way that’s deeply linked to the late brand founder.
He described the kind of woman he was attracted to as “this very strong woman who looked after us, my ideal woman,” an archetype he looked for in each woman he encountered. “But they’re all different. Something for every kind,” he added.
There was less emphasis on historical elements. Instead, the collection exuded a mix of Jane Fonda’s workout video aerobic sensuality and the carpe diem attitude seen on the dance floor of Studio 54. The shapes were sleek and sexy with plunging necklines and shimmering sheer fabrics.
Meanwhile, the daywear selections gave boss-lady energy, with the best example being the white, double-breasted ensemble on Irina Shayk.
Kronthaler said dressing up and living in the moment is “the most important thing because you never know what can happen to you. You always want to look great.”
Spring 2025 also marked the end of the co-ed era for the brand. “I could concentrate on the women, for once. I don’t want the men to distract me constantly. I used to do this in the past. We always have men and women, and at one point we changed, and now I went back to just doing women, and men at another date,” added Kronthaler.
Showing a stone’s throw from Place de la République — a hotbed for protest — was also an opportunity for the brand to advocate for the freedom of Paul Watson, the marine wildlife conservationist currently detained in Greenland and under threat of extradition to Japan for his anti-whaling campaigns in Antarctica, the brand’s show notes highlighted.
