After absorbing the main menswear ideas for fall 2025, style-conscious men shy of trends but keenly aware of them might gravitate to Aldo Maria Camillo’s handsome range, which ticked many boxes in an understated way.
His double-breasted topcoats and blazers – among the most ubiquitous items in a season hinged on tailored essentials – came with roomy fits and lots of swagger, while pea coats and meaty shirt jackets gently nodded to military dress and uniforms, perennial starting points for the seasoned Italian designer.
“And then I try to make it not too literal somehow,” he explained during a preview.
Camillo shot his lookbook near his home and design studio in Fontainebleau, an hour and change outside of Paris, but his dark and dressy ensembles are suave enough to take a man pretty much anywhere in a big city, the leopard-print items perhaps reserved for after-dark shenanigans.
His clothes get their unique attitude from carefully studied proportions, armholes, sleeve heads and waist seaming – plus raw cotton canvas linings that help them melt onto shoulders.
The designer, who honed his skills at brands including Valentino, Berluti and Cerruti before launching his namesake brand in 2019, returned to a favorite and storied Italian wool mill, Marzotto Group, which produces in southern Italy factories.
The fabrics – brushed virgin wool for coats and military gabardine for trousers – heightened not only the luxury but the permanence of these clothes. Camillo is all for wardrobe building.
