With pre-fall 2026, Elie Saab turned his gaze back to his home city of Beirut — not as nostalgia, but through a kaleidoscope of grit and glamour.
Titled “Indelible Love,” the collection arrives as Lebanon continues to grapple with political paralysis, economic strain and renewed regional instability, tensions that have deepened daily uncertainty while reinforcing Beirut’s reputation for resilience. That backdrop played against the collection’s balance and read as the portrait of a city and a woman shaped by contrast, expressed through clothes that were alternately authoritative and seductive.
Daywear exuded modern confidence with bold tailoring in tactile materials. Cinnamon-colored leather and suede softened shapely suiting with voluminous rounded shoulders, while olive jackets paired with flocked denim trousers had casual ease. Knit midis printed with graphic motifs were grounded by tall black boots and oversized totes, emphasizing the turn toward practical elegance Saab has taken in recent seasons.
Throughout, Saab played with opposition. Layering of unexpected colors and contrasting textures, such as gauzy emerald blue pussybow blouses against cognac pencil skirts, evoked the country’s contrast of sea and sand.
He also played with shape in collars — popped high and protective on wool overcoats, while sequined jackets skipped them altogether. Much of the collection was anchored in covetable outerwear, and he added his swirling motif emblem to linings and turned-up cuffs.
For evening, Saab worked with more monochrome palettes and opulent materials that recalled the city’s golden age of glamour from the 1950s to early 1970s when it was known as “Paris by the Sea.” Lace appeared as sweeps and in cutouts, revealing flashes of skin, while champagne paillettes were glamorous and gala-ready.
Pieces from his expanding accessories lines, including V-cut stilettos and boxy clutches, felt modern and minimalist. The collection was rooted in Beirut’s complexity while geared toward the international audience that makes him a red carpet regular. There was power in the contradiction.
