Stewart Milligan is a senior material scientist and textile technologist who has over three decades of experience spanning R&D, sustainability and product development. He is the founder and head consultant of Milligan Textiles and currently serves as a fabric development technical consultant for Cotton USA, which is the export promotion brand of the National Cotton Council of America that operates across more than 50 countries.
Here, Milligan shares insights into fiber and fabric trends, especially in the activewear market, which is seeing an influx of innovation.
Sourcing Journal: What are some of the fiber and fabric innovations you are seeing in the activewear market? And what consumer demands are these innovations meeting?
Stewart Milligan: One of the main advantages of athleisure apparel is its flexibility to transition easily from work or social settings to the gym, or even just running daily errands. That versatility means materials and innovations need to perform well across all of those end uses, and more active lifestyles are really driving the pace of innovation as a result. Consumer demand is primarily focused on increased comfort through material softness, garment cut and fit, stretch and move-with-you properties and breathability, as well as temperature regulation, moisture control and odor control.
Longevity and sustainability are also growing drivers.Â
Cotton plays a significant role in meeting these demands. Its natural comfort, breathability and softness make it well suited to the broad range of end uses athleisure requires. Cotton also blends exceptionally well with other fibers, which is an important area of ongoing innovation.
Stewart Milligan
Blends with man-made cellulosic fibers such as modal, lyocell and viscose deliver added softness and drape, while blends with wool bring additional performance benefits in temperature regulation and odor control, allowing brands to build on cotton’s natural strengths while targeting specific performance needs.
Climate control, thermo-regulation, and moisture management are other important areas of innovation, with the goal of making sure the consumer stays comfortable — never too hot, never too cold, never too wet. Cotton innovation is playing an increasingly meaningful role here. Supima Air, a recent textile innovation, uses hollow-core yarn technology to produce a fabric that is lighter, more breathable, and faster drying than typical construction. This helps improve thermal regulation and moisture management.
As it goes for other fibers, wool, particularly merino, is well known for its natural performance in this space. Phase-change materials that manage temperature by absorbing or releasing heat, infrared fibers and coatings, and advanced moisture-wicking technologies are also part of this innovation landscape.   Â
3D knitting is also making a meaningful impact. Fewer or no seams add comfort and a cleaner aesthetic, and it’s possible to zone different performance properties into specific areas of a garment through both construction and material choices. We’re also seeing growth in more relaxed fits, with comfort compression increasingly replacing high compression. An added benefit: 3D knitting can reduce fabric waste during manufacture by up to 30 percent, going straight from yarn to finished garment.
SJ: What are some recent textile innovations that have emerged? And what’s driving demand?Â
S.M.: Across textile categories more broadly, one of the most notable shifts we’re seeing is the rise in desire for natural fibers, driven by growing consumer awareness of both environmental and health impacts, particularly when it comes to the materials worn closest to our skin.
This is translating into real momentum in cotton and cotton-blend innovation. Brands are looking to meet consumer demand with fibers that are naturally breathable, comfortable and more sustainable by nature.
SJ: And what about synthetics?
S.M.: When it comes to synthetics, recycled fiber use continues to grow across polyester and nylon, but it’s worth noting that a good portion of this recycled content comes from plastic bottles rather than textile-to-textile recycling.
While textile-to-textile recycling is beginning to emerge as an option for these manufacturers, it remains limited in scale. All to say, recycled synthetics do not yet offer the same level of sustainability as natural fibers like cotton.
SJ: What are some other trends that you are noticing?
S.M.: Garment innovation is also advancing, with inclusive sizing and adaptable fits gaining more attention across the industry. Smart textiles and wearables continue to generate a lot of interest and there is meaningful early-stage development work happening, but successes to date remain largely niche.Â
From a process standpoint, environmentally responsible dyeing techniques are advancing, and there is continued investment in reduced lead-time routes and speed to market.
